Actually (at least with Dreamweaver CS5) I've noticed the code is nice and clean. After using FrontPage for a long time (basically as a glorified text formatter and table maker), I tried Dreamweaver and was fairly impressed. There isn't a lot of junk everywhere and you can setup lots of nifty formatting options to keep the code easier to read. You can even have it reformat pages you'd previously written in FrontPage to be formatted nicely again (thank god).
The thing is, starting with one of these is a nice way to learn. You fuck around with some stuff and look at the code while you're doing it (I love the design/code view and I wish we'd had this back in FrontPage 98 days). It's a nice way to learn...seeing the code generated while you do it. I don't let it generate CSS for me though...I do that shit manually. That's what Google is for. I'd say a nice healthy way to do web pages at this juncture is to learn the code and use an editor for the trivial things. You don't really need to type in the damn bold and italics codes by hand do you? I see a lot of elitists when it comes to this kind of stuff but I've been doing web pages since I was 12 years old (I'm 26 now) and I've found a nice balance of hand coding and editors makes life easier if you know what you're doing...especially when you are not fighting with it like FrontPage.
Jesus christ I hate FrontPage. I learned its kinks over the years and how to not fight but it was a long learning process. Dreamweaver is nowhere NEAR as bad. In fact, it is quite pleasant.