You're probably right, but it would be momentum and engine. IF you can put it in neutral, or turn off the engine, AND the regular brakes aren't working, THEN the handbrake will do the job.

Not many - I like to take them to the point of lockup, although that's not really an issue with anti-lock systems these days.

Not really - brakes are designed to convert kinetic energy into heat via friction - so they're also designed to shed heat efficiently - you'll notice that braking systems have all sorts of active ventilation systems around them - look up designs for "ventilated brake disc". High-performance racing systems can work even when the disc is glowing red. Admittedly, handbrakes won't do it as well as the footbrake systems - the handbrakes in my cars run mechanical/cable linkages to a shoes/drum combo on the rear wheels, which are disc/drum combos.
 
Are you saying you wouldn't use your handbrake in an emergency, if the situation demanded it?

cough*synchromesh*cough

So, it's not allowed to be used in an emergency? "Sorry Honey, I know we're hurtling down the hill to our certain death because the hydraulic brakes have failed, but it's a parking brake".
 
It serves both purposes - to be used in an emergency, and as a primary device to hold the car still when parked. If it was only a parking brake, then why does it use friction material (pads/shoes) and a drum or disc to rub against said material ? Instead of some other method?

Don't know about the USA, but in Oz I've never seen anything other than Off/steering lock, then accessories, then on/run, then start. Turning the key from ON to Accessories will not lock the steering. Sometimes the steering won't lock until the key is physically removed from the barrel.

Who's scared? Test condition{handbrake},{velocity} if {handbrake} = ON AND velocity = 0, THEN throttle = released ELSE throttle = off
 
I'm sure someone with better logic skills can widen this to include various other parameters like transmission=neutral. Or put the various transmission and engine management systems into a test or maintenance mode if you want to put the car on a dyno, or similar. It's not such a difficult thing to consider - "hey, if the car's moving and someone pulls on the handbrake, maybe we'd better shut off the throttle". As I said, surely this has been considered and rejected - I'd still like to see the decision tree for the various states of the throttle - just what conditions would cause a normal, or emergency shut-off?

Harumph. Well, "handbrake on" should be a "throttle off" trigger - just like footbrake turns off cruise control. I can't believe car designers/engineers are THAT stupid - they must have thought of this and decided against it.
 
Yes, I'm aware I've strayed from the core of the article - I was just musing on safety design issues in general.

Wow. I don't think you're pulling it hard enough (ba-doom-tish!). I've managed to stop, from town speeds, every car I've ever had, using the handbrake. It's one of the things I test when I buy a car. There's a long straight downhill stretch between my nearest town and the sh!thole down the bottom of the hill - long enough to have a "truck brake rest area" at the top of the stretch and another one at the bottom. I can stop my car from 80km/h using the handbrake before it reaches the bottom. Foot off the gas, stick it in third or second gear, and pull slowly but firmly on the handbrake. You can feel it bite, and you just keep on pulling.
 
To get the feel of what your handbrake can do, try pulling a handbrake turn next time you're on dirt - off the gas, stick in neutral if you want, yank the handbrake while turning the steering quickly one way, then the other - it should lock up the back wheels and send you into crazy-fun land.

Not if you ease it on. Its other name is "emergency brake". I don't know much about engine management computers, but cruise control in my car shuts off from a number of different triggers - use the brakes, exceed speed parameters (high OR low), etc - as well as just pressing the button to shut it off. Surely there'd be more than one trigger for an electronic throttle to shut down, and using the emergency brake should be number 1 or 2 on the priority list.

Premiere pro - adjustment layers. Saves a LOT of time applying effects to video clips on the same track. Also, when using a compatible video adapter the software (mercury playback engine) offloads many intensive tasks such as special effects to the GPU (CUDA cores, actually) and that really speeds up the workflow. Native capture/ingest of new high-def video formats which previously required third-party plugins. Plug your camera into a laptop running Prelude/OnLocation and you can watch various lighting/colour graphs and histograms in real-time - Luma/Chroma, YPbPr, RGB and so on, allowing you to adjust lighting before you start filming, instead of the old "fix it in post" regime.
 
Granted, you were talking about Photoshop and that product probably peaked some years ago. Other products in the suite continue to improve.
 
Yes, I'm a bit of an Adobe fanboi when it comes to the video production suite - my high-school son bought it on education pricing, so I've got no complaints about Adobe's pricing - I've always bought the boxed product (with one exception, see below), and NEVER paid full retail.
 
When I bought CS5.5 it was in the grace period after CS6 was announced, so I took advantage of the free upgrade and downloaded the CS6 suite. When the boxed CS5.5 arrived it included a free fully-licenced copy of CS4 - CS5.5 was 64-bit only and CS4 was included to keep you working while you waited for delivery of your shiny 64-bit editing suite. So a single purchase of CS5.5 at the right time on education pricing got me 3 fully licenced copies of the software - different versions, obviously, but 2 of them are in use - CS6 on the main machine, and CS4 on my old laptop, used for on location tests and and so on. It pays to do your research and take advantage of what's on offer, rather than walk into a shop and complain about the high cost.

Wouldn't some deliberate misspellings be sufficient for most of us? Such as "stapple" above? Try "Korrekt", and/or "batery".
 
I don't know how password crackers work, but aren't they going to give up after hitting my bank account more than a few dozen/hundred tries, and move on to the next?

Pardon my ignorance, but wouldn't the malware need an IP address to get packets out through the NIC? If that IP address isn't going to come from the usual sources (DNS, HOSTS file, etc) to avoid being dead-ended, then it would need to be hard-coded within the malware itself, updatable only by updating the malware or driver. Anyway, it's trivial to block access to a host whether you use its IP address or host name. And, the validation server for a game is not likely to be the same server that the spyware reports to, but I suppose you can tell the game to not start without a connection to the spyware and validation server/s.

GW also acquired Talisman, removed all female characters, substituted minotaurs and other stupid relics from other games, and released "Talisman third edition". Should've been called "Turd Edition". I was mighty pleased when the fourth edition came out looking much better. My nephew borrowed my second edition and promptly lent it to someone else, and it never came back.
 
Yeah, the best thing you can say about GW is that they have a flawed outlook on the world of tabletop gaming.

It won't be long before interested parties find out what hosts the spyware reports to, then that information will become public. Anti-malware suppliers can either provide an option to remove said spyware, or at the very least, block it at the nearest firewall. Hell, anyone with half a brain can just add a 127.0.0.1 entry to the HOSTS file.