I did Google.. And it's a dual Core 1GHz... Hardly impressive for the price (I paid $600 for a Note II off of Newegg for the wife)
I had actually contacted BOTH my state senators about this.. and it was actually the republican's office who told me about the democrat who was introduction a bill along these lines.. and I'm glad to see this news!
And what about edus? Is on every student machine we have... And we have 40,000 students at the main campus alone....
Are they going to have a big discount for educational packages?
No, you can replace them. The S40 (or is it the 60 I forget) not really because of the gap behind the display but there's still a double din sized unit in the dash.
And as for the integration, pac, scosche , idatalink and others make integration kits that allow you to install a new radio while retaining the factory functionality. This even applies to fiber optic systems like in the Mercedes and BMW.
I've dealt with this stuff for over 13 years now professionally (although I have to admit I do like doing remote starts a lot more than audio stuff)
A lot of companies used a small HD inside to store system info and nav data (even in the after market units) and used the data from the DVD to update the firmware and maps on the hard drive.
Of course there were also those that ran off of the DVD and RAM memory (one such unit is my way old by this point Pioneer AVIC-N3 that's still chugging away). Others like some of the Eclipse and higher end Pioneer units back in the mid 2000's stored the info on a hard drive for faster access and no need to mess with discs. I think even Alpine had a HD based add-on nav unit around the same point, but don't quote me on that I forget. But seeing that both Eclipse (Fujitsu 10) and Pioneer are large OEM supplies.. as well as Alpine but like I said I can't remember if they did offer one or not after market... if there were an increasing amount of hard drive based setups as OEM in the mid 2000's
Metra and others make custom fit kits (yeah they cost more than your standard $20 normal style kit). They're out there and do a real good job of keeping the factory fit and finish
Ha! I obviously wasn't thinking when I wrote that.. We use dell's at work and you are absolutely correct (be it desktop or laptop).. Ran into that enough times myself
Why do you have to read the service tag? It can usually be found in the bios or even via their website if you open it in IE
Not so. You're more likely to notice someone holding out a smartphone taking pictures and stuff, where as with glass it was discovered there's code and an apk with facial control features such as winking to take a picture etc. Since someone could much more easily just turn their head and wink to snap a picture vs holding a phone out.. Pretty sure you could do so much more covertly with glass than any phone (restrooms, up skirt, etc)
But the release of the code provided the means to find out there is code in there for controlling glass via facial gestures such as winking. Combine this with the earlier concern of people taking pictures or videos say in a restroom or up skirt up steps where the people who claimed oh you have to push a button or say a command to do so... Well just wink and its on.
And it's funny this is all being developed by a guy who doesn't want people owning drones that could film others.. Such as the parrot ar.drone.
On a side note, with all the reviews and ads it seems the main focus and feature being demoed is its ability to take phots and video......
Weird... because I dont have large hands and the note II fits fine
The installers dont use them... the mechanics, well I guess its happened before
"100watts is a lot of power."
Only in context. Take 120 volts.. that's less than 1 Amp. That's less than the LED replacement bulbs for Halogens use. 220 Volts (for the Euro guys). That's less than half an amp. Current USB Voltage (5 volts)... that's 20 Amps. Now that is a bit much for DC like that.. you'll need around 16-18 gauge wire ideally. But this spec is (after I was informed of this) using 20 volts, so that's 5 amps. That's not that much. You have some fairly small wires in your car fused at 10 to 15 amps now powering the radio etc, and that's only at 12 to 14.4 volts
I guess I missed that part.. I figured they HAD to be used higher voltages but I just based off of a worst case 5v deal
because fibre is much easier to break/snap than copper. Same reason the company my friend works for who installs media distribution systems into Lufthansa aircraft don't spec it out with fiber lines.. they use CAT 7 with the TERA style ends, because an over-zealous mechanic is more likely to snap a fibre optic line with his zip tie than a copper line