In the end you are going to have to do a little code. For visual editing like others have said Dreamweaver is probably the best, and it's not bad for hand coding..it's just bloated. I do have a suggestion not mentioned here, try using wordpress and use CSSEdit to style the site. You will have to manually do some css coding however you will get instant feedback visually. If you learn to at least code css you will find you have much more control and arrive at the layout you want much easier. Now that IE6 is moving off the radar the bar to entry is much lower. The thing is, if you want something for the long haul learn at least html and css then you can use vi it's been around since 1978, it's free and it's really powerful and not going anywhere anytime soon. On the mac Textmate and Coda are excellent editors, but again, not exactly visual. GoLive was a wretched piece of software imho, if you suffered through that you can suffer through anything.