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Coward.

Rolex - tehe.

Why are the OPs in-thread questions hidden? And what's up with bashing him for asking questions? I took the time to answer him/her twice. To the person that did that you make me sick. I hope he/she can find the reply since it met the same fate otherwise this site is a waste of bandwidth.

I'll second the 2.5" (laptop) hard drives -- I have seen them take a fall to the floor while powered up and survived. They are extremely durable. My pick is the WD Passport (run the toolkit to remove the virtual driver / backup disk and its as close as you can get to a 'plain drive' these days without the need for drivers or other junk / bells / whistles). It's good in USB 2.0 or 3.0. 3.0 is backwards compatible with 2.0. The 2.0 is $10 less expensive and the cable is a bit lighter. A USB 3.0 cable is comparable to Ethernet in feel.

Trayless SATA - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817998041 - This isn't the exact brand I used, but this is the style. Do some comparison shopping. The case I use for each drive is the ADIDT HS-1 for 3.5" HD. I bought them off ebay for about half of newegg's price. I couldn't find them listed at the moment on ebay, but there are plenty of hits on the web.. hit google and you'll see the pics.. assorted colors. They're stackable too and have spaces for labels. This is a strong case -- it takes two fingers for me to open the snap. I also print numeric tags with a label maker to stick on the drive for identification in the corner. 1 TB hard drives - http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007603%20600003269&IsNodeId=1&name=1TB%20and%20higher - my pick is the Western Digital Green drives.. read up on their soft seek technology which made them the quietest drive at the time I researched them. They come in consumer and RAID versions. The consumer version works well for both applications and costs less. For the cost savings using this method, you can double up in drives which is a given for storing any data -- always have at minimum two copies. Because they're just plain drives, you won't need special hardware to read them if your PC is destroyed by natural disaster or stolen. Store one set off-site... safe-deposit box works good. Encryption is a plus http://www.truecrypt.org/.

Screw tape... you pay $2,000 USD for the drive, $50+ per tape for a couple of hundred gigs. Go with bare drive external: Install a trayless SATA bay for 3.5" hard drives... this will run you $12. Buy some bare SATA drives.. these run $50 for 1TB and are available up to 3TB. I buy bare drive hard cases for about $3 each. My Intel ICH10R on-board RAID controller supports hot-swap -- so in effect it's a big 3.5" floppy.. that's right. If your tape drive breaks, you're out another two grand. This is far less expensive, faster, higher density, and random access. In addition, you can boot from it. Want RAID0? Install two trayless SATA bays for a total of $24 and back up in pairs.

Don't you mean, "Why Apple does not allow you to install Flash on your device."? It's not like Apple has to pay to put Flash on the device.. they're prohibiting you from installing it from any provider. It's your device... you should be allowed to do whatever you want to with it. P* on Apple.

Please note the following and make the necessary adjustments to the original post: "Now, a woman's car got hit by a train, and for some reason, she's blaming a GPS navigation unit." This statement is inaccurate per the original article: "I can't completely blame the sat nav because up until there, it did get me where I needed to go," she added. "If maybe I had been more aware of the situation, I wouldn't have had the accident."