I think it indicates that somebody can discuss online, without tainting an identity so badly that it must be abandoned. Do you find yourself spouting inflammatory, idiotic, and racist arguments at your real-life neighbors, then decide it's time to move? My /. account is like a phone number, email address, or street address. I suppose it helps that I'm naturally a lurker.

Don't get me wrong, I've said some stupid shit.

That shouldn't be a problem. If you watch the video in TFA, the item is built up layer by layer, supported by un-fused stock. Your pencil balancing on it's tip will be supported by surrounding material, until it's finished and removed. At which point it won't be balanced on it's tip anymore. This is how they build hollow pieces, and pieces with overhangs.

As the sibling poster mentioned, they do check for other things. Like they make sure that hollow items aren't too thin, connecting struts actually connect, etc.

As long as you get rid of all of the dried membrane; that stuff is pretty bitter. I haven't figured out how to get it all without breaking the nut pieces.

I wouldn't run my ntp masters on ESXi. I've always let my firewalls and/or routers handle that task, so I haven't needed to virtualize. On the VMs themselves, monitor to make sure ntpd is running (or set your config manager to start it if it's not running). I've had some problems where one VM causes slowness for the others, and ntpd would loose sync and exit.

I haven't noticed any of these problems with Google Play. I'm not a heavy user though.

I could see about 80% of drivers being better than median. It's hard to be a really good driver, but there no bottom on bad.

What did YOU DO?

I have few enough drives that I can track the remaps manually. If a drive has a single remap event, I leave it be. If there is a second event, I replace the drive. I have one drive that remapped 451 sectors on it's first day, and has been working fine for 2 years. I do the same for uncorrectable read errors, except that I rebuild the RAID after the first event.

RedHat/Fedora has a weekly cron, /etc/cron.weekly/99-raid-check. The current version won't notify you about problems until you edit /etc/sysconfig/raid-check. I only have RAID1, so I don't know if RAID6 automatically repairs. The other RAID levels don't have enough information for an auto-repair, so it requires a human to do it.

ZFS has a scrub command, but it's not scheduled automatically on FreeBSD. This is a combined test & repair command, since ZFS has the checksum information to know which disk is wrong.

Regardless of the hard/soft RAID with a scheduled check or patrol, you should also be running smartd.

I've had a bit of practice, but it's really not that hard. This is no craft brew, and certainly not a time honored family recipe. It is tasty on a hot day.

• Buy a pre-hopped extract. I made a Cooper's Bitters recently. This one says to add 1 pound of sugar, but I use prefer to use one pound of Dried Malt Extract (DME).
• Acquire a food safe plastic bucket + lid. Buy one, or ask a local restaurant for a used one.
• Acquire some food safe plastic tubing. I couldn't find anybody to borrow, so I bought it.
• Buy some bottle caps and a capper.
• Acquire an air lock and rubber stopper.
• If your bucket doesn't have a hole in the lid, drill a hole in the bucket's lid so the stopper/airlock will fit snuggly.
• Wash the bucket, lid, stopper, airlock, and a big wooden spoon. Don't use soap. Make sure it's visibly clean, then soak in diluted bleach. Rinse with potable water.
• Put 4 gallons of potable water in the bucket.
• Dump pre-hopped extract and sugar/DME into the bucket. Stir until dissolved. Dump yeast packet (it came with the extract) in the bucket.
• Put the lid on. Insert rubber stopper into the hole, fill the airlock with water (to the line), and put the airlock in the stopper.
• Let sit for 3-14 days, until it stops bubbling.
• Clean ~50 used beer bottles (prefer the kind that need a bottle opener, but twist-off will work, they're just harder to cap). Soak tubing, bottles, and caps in diluted bleach. Rinse everything with potable water.
• Using the food grade tubing, start a siphon, and fill as many bottles as you can. Leave some room in the bottle; fill it to the same level as store bought bottles.
• Add a teaspoon of sugar/DME to each bottle for carbonation. Measure carefully, err on the side of less sugar. If you add too much sugar, you may be making a CO2/glass bomb. Cap bottles.
• Let bottles sit for 3-5 days at room temp.
• Chill bottle and enjoy.

The most important step is cleanliness. Make sure everything is visually clean, and not scratched. Make sure everything has been in good contact with the dilute bleach. Make sure the bleach is well rinsed before it touches the ingredients/beer. If the beer gets moldy, or doesn't look/smell like beer when you're done, don't drink it.

There a many different techniques and gadgets for every step in that process. Every step can be expanded and customized to make the beer more uniquely yours. You will get better results with better equipment and a better process. But you dont' have too. This process, plus a can of pre-hopped extract will reliably make decent beer. It's not good beer, but it's better and cheaper than american mass-brews. This process costs US$20-30 to setup, and about $20-25 for 2 cases of beer. If you're really cheap, you can make it cheaper (use a growler instead of bottles+caps; use sugar instead of DME).

If you're interested, I recommend Complete Joy of Home Brewing. If you're already a brewer, and you don't believe me that you can make beer with this setup, then I recommend The Alaskan Bootlegger's Bible.

If they can allocate consistently in a 51/8 network, they can allocate consistently in a 10/8 network.

I only give DNA samples when they're covered by Spousal Privilege.

My FasTrak provider offers RF shielding bags. IIRC, the traffic flow tracking was mentioned in the mounting instructions, with suggestions on how to properly use the shielding bags.

I prefer to run my screens with a lightgrey-on-black color scheme, instead of black-on-white. It was a lot more effective on CRTs, but it's pretty useful on LCD screens too.

We took a wait and see approach.

When the first study came up saying there was a link, we did a risk/reward scenario. If we vaccinated, there was an increased chance of autism. If we didn't vaccinated, there was very little increased risk (herd immunity hadn't been compromised yet). Neither one of us is a biologist, so we were in no position to evaluate the study. We talked to several doctors, half of which also choose not to vaccinate their children. As a bonus, this path gave us more options: we could always change our mind later, but you can't un-vaccinate.

Several new study come out saying that the first study was full of shite. The risk is much lower, because the current known side effects all have a much lower probability. At this point, we had all of our children vaccinated.

Isn't that what critical thinking is? Evaluating information, making the best decisions you can, and re-evaluating things when the information changes?