Comment Re:Doesn't matter (Score 1) 73
Basic installs don't work at all, but you said "Powerwalls and solar to keep the lights and AC on for a period of time".
So huh? Do you have a “Stand Alone” mode or not?
Rooftop solar by itself cannot operate when the electric utility goes down. This shutdown happens at the inverter to prevent backfeeding electrical power onto the offline grid and killing workers who expect lines to no longer be energized. Backfeeding to downed power lines also risks starting fires and killing other people who happen upon them. Technically, adding a battery by itself does nothing to change the situation, but in virtually every implementation of solar+battery you get an inverter capable of islanding the solution; effectively severing the utility connection and operating exclusively internally. If the batteries fill, the solar panels are still disabled because there's nowhere for the power to go.
So huh? Do you have a “Stand Alone” mode or not? Are you running the AC all night in a massive house with poor insulation?
I do have a solar+battery solution capable of islanding, which is the only reason I still have power when the utility cuts out. However, Powerwalls are expensive and I already have a Tesla vehicle with a massive 82kWh battery sitting on it that would be wonderful to tap in case of emergency. There's no real technical hurdle to simply pulling power from the car to the Tesla Energy Gateway where it can trickle-fill the Powerwalls to a given threshold when they get below a certain point. The cycling on the EV battery should be minimal as long as it's not happening all the time and as long as the feed isn't too rapid. The Model 3 Performance motor can draw (ballpark) 340kW from the pack at max output, but it more likely will draw around 20kW during normal driving conditions. If you pull max 10kW from it, that will feed enough power for nearly any home while charging the Powerwalls and not stressing the battery pack in the slightest.
Whether my AC runs all night depends on the night. If the low temperature at night remains above 90 degrees, my very efficient heat pump HVAC will operate throughout much of the night in a low stepping mode for the condenser and the air handler, gently feeding cool air to maintain the desired internal temperatures indoors. My house isn't massive and it's as insulated as it's economically feasible to make it.
you can't even prepare one basement room with thermal mass and insulation?
There are no basements in any houses here; all slab-on-grade. Constructing a basement would involve demolishing the existing foundation in place and digging out a basement with the house still standing. Assuming you could find anyone crazy enough to do this work, it would likely cost more than the house itself.
Every oversimplified bullshit "solution" you come up with reinforces how ignorant you are about the real world. You know nothing, but supply flippant answers as though they're realistic or based on anything not pulled directly from your own ass.