One way to add ribs to the backside of the mirror is welding strips of metal edgewise, but a better way may be corrugating via a knife-edge or a very astute v-shape to create the same effect, from the mirror material itself. This way you could have a good flexural modulus that holds the paraboloid shape, and the mirror surfaces would be level, with just a very small area missing where the rib indentation happens. The ribs should not be straight running toward the edge, but curved, and one option is indenting figure 8s into the panel but without the lines meeting at the waist, but more like ununun, in an curved 8 shape way.
For the truss a good solution would be having equilateral triangles formed by the collector tubing one vertex, and two other similar tubings running along the edge of the mirrors for the other 2 vertices. The larger the base of a truss the more sturdy it is and this is the largest base you can economically form in the given scenario. For the diagonal segments of the truss, because you don't want to shade too much mirror surface, you would only reinforce in tension with thin stainless wires, which means a z shape truss surface is not enough and it has to be x shaped, kind of like the very first airplanes had wire reinforced trusses for light weight.
For small scale installations you could use angle iron for the beams running along the edge of the mirrors, with slots to flex and snap in the corrugated mirror pieces, which would be flimsy enough even with the back-rib corrugations to flex enough to snap into place. If the center of the mirror is free floating then you could have and adjustment screw pushing or pulling on it to fine-tune the focal point, which you could check with a sheet of paper, knowing the image say 2 inches from the focus has to be 2 inches wide, 3 inches away 3 inch wide or something along these lines. For small scale installations such as backyards you could have the whole thing tilted 30 or 45 degrees, and the total length would be limited by how high you're willing to go on the north end, say 10 feet is manageable with a 10 foot ladder. You could have Home Depot sold cement blocks with threaded rebar sticking up out of them, and 3 legs for the whole installation would be stable even on lawn grass. Now for wind resistance you would want the mirror panels to be flimsy enough to where they pop out right before the wind tips over the contraption, lifting one of the cement blocks. After a big storm you'd find your mirror pieces laying on the ground somewhere.
The problem with small scale installations is that they are small scale, and for meaningful solar power you need to deal with very large areas, something that may not be meaningfully available in most urban backyards. For instance heating a home on average in the US in colder climates like Chicago for a 2000 sq ft home you need a 100,000 Btu/hr furnace, which is equivalent to about 30 kW. Solar irradiation facing the sun nonangled is about 1 kW per square meter, so you would need probably 60 square meters of area to account for all the losses and inefficiencies, which is 6 m x 10 m or about 18 ft x 31 ft, which is a lot of tilted area facing the sun. And this heating would only substitute the gas furnace while the sun is out, not during the night, for which you would need geothermal so double the area again or even more, and the whole thing would not even work on cloudy days, where photovoltaic still outputs about 5% of the full sun power, but parabolic solar thermal would be near zero. Though 30kW of heat converted via a Stirling or steam engine might be able to provide 5-10 kW electric, which is more than decent, and you could send it to the grid, and the whole rig may or may not be cheaper than photovoltaic.