Meters - not feet. 10GBaseT is good for 55 meters on Cat6 and 100 meters on Cat6A.

Before NK started on developing actual nukes, their "nuclear option" was (and very arguably still is) artillery pieces. Thousands of them, including a few hundred 170mm guns and 240mm rocket launchers that can potentially reach Seoul. North Korea has stated that they can rain 250,000 shells per hour down on Seoul, although South Korean estimates are that they can do, at best, 20,000, and more realistically 2,400.

Maybe you can, at least, put the 2nd UPS on a different phase (if L-N connected like 120 volts in NA or 230 volts in EU) or phase pair (if L-L connected like 208 volts in NA or 400 volts in EU if that's a step-down UPS). That way you have a chance of ridding through single phase outages which sometimes happen.

Some big caveats to this:

In North America, residential power is "split-phase" which is still considered single phase - it is a pair of hot wires delivered to you, with neutral off the center tap of the transformer on the pole, tied to ground at the service entrance. It's actually very rare for just one of those phases to die (I have yet to see it happen), as it would require a break in one of the hot wires running from your house to the pole. These are low voltage lines so they are typically bundled together, so if run aerially, a tree would snag both of them at once, and if underground a flood would damage both at once. A dead transformer or a dead power line anywhere upstream of the transformer would kill power to both.

Three-phase failure modes often leave you with only one phase out of three working, but never two. This is regardless of whether you are drawing phase-to-neutral power or phase-to-phase power. Imagine the phases of a three-phase system as three dots in a triangle, and the connections between those dots are the power you can draw. If one of the dots goes away, you're left with just one remaining connection between the remaining pair of dots. Remember the neutral is only generated locally at the transformer, so it does not provide any sort of redundant path for anything outside of the building.

Not in the last 7-8 years it hasn't. I tried for 3 hours on the phone to get a laptop hard drive replaced under next-business-day warranty. They wouldn't budge, because I couldn't produce the output of the diagnostic tools that were loaded *on that hard drive*. In the end, we got the replacement drive when they felt they could get around to it.

These days, there's little point to getting a hot-swap RAID server from Dell, because to get a replacement drive from them they will ask you to take the server offline and run the diagnostic checks on it. This is a far cry from 10+ years ago when I got replacement drives via UPS SonicAir over holiday weekends.

There's actually a pretty good range of ultra-wide APS-C lenses now. Canon has a 10-22mm. Nikon has a 10-24mm. Sigma has an 8-16mm, a 10-20mm, as well as circular and diagonal fisheyes. Tokina has a 11-16mm. Tamron has a 10-24mm. There's others. They're very proud of them too, judging by their prices.

I went a cheaper route and got the Samyang 8mm fisheye. When I want rectilinear output, I convert it with hugin.

the majority of judges just don't care on a personal level about the parties before them, they just want to get the cases moved through their court

What do you think explains the jurisdiction shopping that lead to a large increase of these cases being pursued in East Texas?

Another way to calculate this: Google "c/1.8GHz" and it'll give you the result in centimeters. Then just divide by two to get a half-wavelength dipole or divide by 4 to get a 1/4-wave ground plane length.

If you want a high-gain directional antenna for >1GHz you're probably best off with a dish, perhaps using a cantenna-like feed horn.

of course, these days, for anyone in the building trade to quotes believe quotes that this is even remotely possible would require supercomputers and fluid dynamics analysis

Or a small scale-model wind tunnel that could cheaply and easily be built with some plywood, some fans, and maybe some smoke or thread to show wind direction. It shouldn't cost more than $100.

You sound like you have something to prove here. Get on it.

In the US, 208 3-phase is standard to the house, with 120 single phase only within the house.

No, it is not. Split-phase is the norm.

It's been done. Here's one. There are few others out there too.

90% for both generator and battery charge/discharge combined is reasonable, since you *will* be operating at the motor's peak efficiency there.

Now, to properly compare apples to apples, look at this graph (on page 10) regarding the Prius motor's efficiency at various power outputs (you've probably already seen this since you mentioned it earlier). Below 5kW, it's at 25%. At 10kW, it's at 33%, and that's a realistic highway speed power output. If we can assume 33%*90% (drivetrain) we get 29.7% - with a 38% Stirling engine, if we get 90% from the rest of the system (generator, battery, controller, wiring) - and I've already posted links showing that's do-able - then if your motor exceeds 87% efficiency you come out ahead. At 5kW output you just need 67% motor efficiency to come out ahead. It's nearly a wash, plus there's lots of tricks you can pull with electric motors when you have a handful of them (vs just one engine).

Again. Who is using these to power a real car sized EV? No one.

Google for 'brushless dc ev' and you'll find lots and lots of product hits.

"Back in the 1990s all of the electric vehicles except one were powered by DC brushless drives. Today, all the hybrids are powered by DC brushless drives, with no exceptions. The only notable uses of induction drives have been the General Motors EV-1; the AC Propulsion vehicles, including the tzero; and the Tesla Roadster." (Granted this is from 2007 but still a good article on the differences between the two types.)