I'm not really interested in a mini-remote-control for my cell phone. E-mail isn't that important that I need to speed up checking it significantly, nor is it vapid enough to be consumable on a 320x320 1" screen.
GPL proponents speaking in this way come off as though they are entitled to the hard work of others.
It's really not a hard concept. The GPL takes rights from developers (they have to release not just their changes [LGPL], but their own code as well), to guarantee rights to users through multiple iterations. BSD/ISC gives rights to everyone, developers and users alike, but can't guarantee rights of modified versions, that's up to the subsequent developers.
Both have their uses. I personally prefer my library code to be ISC, and my client application code to be GPL. We need more pragmatism, and less dogmatism, with software licenses. I support a developer's choice to use whatever license they want for their code. And if they want to use GPL code, they can accept the license or write their own.
Not much there, though. 1/4 watt resistors, various jumbo-sized capacitors (eg 25V+), DB9/DB25 soldering cups and terminals, small breadboards, solder, and 15-30w irons. No ICs, not even 555's, let alone 74LS. Very poorly stocked, and you can usually see two to three generations of packaging redesigns in a drawer. And the markup is about ten times that of Digikey. Something like $5 for a pack of 5-10 resistors.
It's basically a last resort, when you just don't want to wait four days on a mail-order part.
People don't want to do this because they get an advantage over bricks and motar places.
And they lose their advantage with shipping fees.
If brick and mortar stores were capable of offering the immense selections that online warehouses do, it wouldn't be such a big deal. But there's simply no comparison between a poorly stocked drawer at Radio Shack and the millions of parts at Digikey or Mouser, for just one example.
It's just more and more taxes, while inflation continues to outpace median incomes.
SDL isn't quite as feature complete as any of the others, but can get the job done.
SDL is more suited for abstracting the platform video/audio/input APIs, and can be used nicely in conjunction with Qt, GTK+, etc.
See my database here. Each game gets a manifest file that describes the board layout and each individual memory chip.
The difference between my approach and MAME's, is that my board descriptions are external to the emulator, and not bundled in an internal database. And I also store all the files inside a unique folder per game, rather than inside a ZIP archive per game. That approach lets me put save game data into the folders as well. The database I linked can generate the game folders from individual files.
That statement is factual. I ran out of space in the title to add the latter part, but it's at the very top of the auction details. Missing games are Mountain Bike Rally+Speed Racer (mail order only), Donkey Kong Country Competition (some Blockbusters sold their competition carts instead of destroying them), Star Fox Super Weekend (Nintendo Power sold off its surplus by mail order), Noah's Ark 3D (unlicensed game sold in Christian book stores), MACS (only used by the US military, never sold and the only copies remaining are stolen from the US government), Campus Challenge '92 (destroyed after competition, only two survived), Powerfest '94 (same thing as Campus Challenge '92), and various hardware testing carts (used by Nintendo repair centers.)
Everyone has their own opinion of what comprises a complete set. Some people further insist on having every revision of every game, and every alternate box art and manual printing. Some people include prototypes (where it's impossible to own all of those), on and on. You are welcome to your opinion that this isn't a complete set per your definition. It is per the definition I am going by.
You'll want isopropyl alcohol and something like DeoxIt to remove/prevent any oxidization. You need something of equivalent thickness to the original PCBs that went into the connector with cotton on the outside. Apply your cleaner, and make sure to only insert it vertically. Move to the sides and you can bend the pins. Make sure the system dries completely before powering it on.
Would also suggest you Google edge connector cleaner for alternate methods. Quite a few people have tricks for it involving erasers and such.