Yes, I've owned mine for a month and concur. Check out the 2nd from the left thumbnailed-video at the very bottom of the page at http://swipe.nokia.com/ and dig on the one-handed GUI demo. Yes, the whole OS really is that smooth to use, and when the 1st service pack came out the Swipe keyboard became available too, (I swear Microsoft paid Nokia to BURY this OS & GUI).
The forums at maemo.org are very active with fanboys still modding their linux N900s and discussing things like installing Fennec (that's firefox mobile) to the N9 too. That's what I did and I am in phone browser heaven with the combo of n9 OS swipe gestures along with Firefox mobiles (which amazingly do not conflict, because the N9 swipe is 'from the edge in' while firefox works with a left swipe that did not start at the edge) So yeah, firefox tabs, bookmarks, etc.
I bought mine so I could reduce the wear and tear on my N900. Slashdotters enable Dev-mode in N9 settings, then VNC is right there ready to use over USB or wifi without a password (which you can tweak further) but this means you can use your regular PC keyboard to set passwords into the browser, etc.). Haven't got copy/paste to work over VNC in this way yet though, whereas normally that works for me.
To use a car analogy, I figure this thing is like knowing to buy a 1963 Corvette off the showroom floor new and just taking care of it. And the thing is just a solid little brick by the way, (but not big, svelte). Oh Nokia gives you a rubber skin kind of carrying case and I really like the grip it provides, so I guess ultra-svelte is not interesting for me. The OS with SSH, PGP keys, VNC etc. is just great.