If you're an American consumer, then your iPhone 6+ isn't a "$700 device", because only T-Mobile and small pay-as-you-go providers actually offer phone (service) plans that don't include phone (device) subsidies. When you shop for an iPhone 6 or 6+, you see anywhere from $199 to $499 as the price, because you're locked into a $350+ Early Termination Fee two-year contract. This is a huge reason why we, as a society, consider our phones to be two-year disposable devices - because we're getting even more robbed by the cell-telcos if we DON'T upgrade every two years.
I updated my iPad 3, iPhone 4S and iPhone 5S on release day, and haven't noticed any issues on them. Granted, the 5S is my day-to-day device, so it gets the majority of my usage, but the others seem to work fine (iPad as a gaming/reading/couch-surfing device, 4S mostly as a jukebox on my sound system). Heck, I've got my 3GS hooked up to my alarm clock, running iOS 6 and it's able to run the latest Pandora app still!
I don't know about everyone else, but I play both Pathfinder and D&D 5E. Can I still be pro-panda?
At the very least they should show if the in-app purchasables are something that you can buy just once, or repeatedly. That would be a good indicator of actual upgrade vs paid consumables. I have no problem with free, ad-supported apps that have a $1-2 "remove ads" in-app purchase. If it is a quality app, then I have no qualms about supporting it either with the ad views, or by paying to remove ads.
I see what you're saying, but I very much like when there is a free, ad-supported version of a program, that I can try-before-I-buy, with the author either releasing a "pro" version or some such, that is $1-2, ad-free, or an in-app purchase to remove ads. However, if he made the second type of program, it would likely be grouped together with the freemium games that require daily purchases of $1 buckets of water to make your crops grow, etc. That's the problem I see with the EC ruling.
Like I posted (at the same time as you, apparently!), it's worse than that. I have a Kindle device, but I have to read the book JUST on the Kindle, I can't switch to any of the alternate devices, which is something I do all the time when reading a book. Whether I'm at my desk (Kindle for Mac/Windows), on the bus (iPhone/iPad), or at home, reading before bed (Kindle PW), I want to be able to read the same book, which just doesn't work for the KOLL checkout system.
In my opinion, the most annoying part about the Lending Library is that you can only read the KOLL book on an actual Kindle. I use a Kindle Paperwhite, iPad, iPhone, Kindle for Mac, and Kindle for PC, but I can only read that checked-out book on the Kindle? Why?
You either get constant prompts to go to the "furthest read page", or reset the furthest page after you finish a book and don't read the same one at the same time, or disable WhisperSync.
If you go for #2, good news: they did actually make a way for the user to do this (in the past, you had to contact customer service). Unfortunately, it's something that you have to do for each book, you can't select a bunch and say "reset all".
If you go for #3, then you lose the advantage of one person using multiple devices and having it sync.
I'd imagine one of the biggest factors/problems/differences between buying out-of-state Ferraris/Lamborghinis and out-of-state Teslas is the fact that you can refuel the Ferrari or Lamborghini basically anywhere along the way back to your state. The Tesla? Not so much. You either need to plan charging stops, or get it towed/hauled to within X miles of your home (where X depends on the model of Tesla, obviously).
I'm pretty sure he meant that Michael Bay's designed car would be on fire before going 100MPH+, crashing, splitting in two, wedged into a Jewish community center...then exploding (with an impractically large explosion) then transforming into a semi and driving into the sunset.
Copied from Slickdeals.net forums:
INSTRUCTIONS TO LOCK IN $79 RATE
Quote from orick:
If your current Prime membership is scheduled to expire on or after April 17th, and therefore would auto-renew at the $99 price, you can effectively lock in the $79 price by taking the following steps:
(1) Look up your Prime expiration date. (Let's say yours is June 11th.)
(2) Purchase a Prime Gift Membership here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/prim...
Set the delivery date as the date after your membership expires (in this case, June 12, 2014).
Enter your own e-mail address as the gift recipient. It is okay if this is the exact e-mail address already associated with your Amazon Prime account.
Place order (total will be $79).
(3) Turn off your Prime auto-renew. (End membership - at expiration)
(4) On the day after your membership expires, you will receive an e-mail from Amazon with the gift membership. Follow the instructions to apply it to your account.
This is a pretty straightforward way to save $20.
HOW TO CANCEL AMAZON PRIME AUTO RENEW:
Go to Manage Prime Membership https://www.amazon.com/gp/subs...
Review the renewal date listed on the left-hand side of the page.
If you currently have an Amazon Prime free trial, click Do Not Continue .
If you currently have a paid Amazon Prime membership, click End Membership .
Turn off your renewal using the link below the renewal date.
Note: Your membership will expire at the end of the current period. It will NOT end before your current paid subscription is over, nor can you cancel it early for a refund.