Ive long suspected that my traitorous canned oranges were plotting against me, skulking about the pantry in their RF shielded little can-bunkers, using their knowledge of citrus-based automotive control technology.
I suppose you could say breathing supplies a differential, but its surprisingly low PSI and no where near the energy required to push the necessary volume of water through. You could contrive some energy harvesting thingy with thanks and turbines that you constantly hyperventilate into, but youre right back to a massive rebreather, except you have to breathe like crazy to power it enough to get basically the output water volume fo a jet boat..
A problem using Triton here is all the water is anaerobic, there is no oxygen and thus no sea life below the thermocline, and nothing for the Triton or LikeAFish to extract. Conditions like that can happen unexpectedly anywhere on medium depth dives. Thermoclines shift and below them there is little interaction with oxygenated surface water. So Triton et al would presumably just shut down suddenly and without warning or any reserve even during shallow dives. Not good. Carrying a pony bottle would be mandatory.
Thanks for the link on other dissolved gasses. Nitrogen is available then at ~150% by volume of oxygen. Lets make some assumptions: Troton could use the same membrane for both oxygen and nitrogen; that they both extract 50% efficiency. You need 12L to get a breath of O2 but 40L to get the nitrogen. At 15 bpm we're up to 600 lpm to process. at surface pressure. At 60 foot depth thats 3 atmospheres, so 1800 liters per minute! A sump pump at 1/4 HP does about 80 lpm at no head/pressure, so 5 HP if the triton needs no pressure for the membrane, which I guess is does (reverse osmosis needs about 50psi) so we are probably close to 20HP to run it. Thats a gas-burning outboard motor, not a pair of Duracell AA's and a few CC's of motor.
You and I between us have almost assuredly done more real work on the Triton than the clown that "invented" it; a college sophomore with no engineering background except a working knowledge of Solidworks and access to a 3D printer, and a single escorted rec dive to his credit.
The like-a-fish thingy tacitly implies this by claiming it has applications in underwater habitats. Yep I can see that. But scuba? No, never, not even close.
(I dove with someone using a rebreather once. When he regained consciousness, I swore I'd never ever trust my life to one.)
((If the Triton thing ever could be built to push 200 lpm with a battery and compressor that small, it would revolutionize underwater propulsion. The savings in swimming energy alone would reduce respiration so dramatically during a dive there wouldnt be much need for the oxygen extraction in the first place!))
how about a 10W LED flood light for $18? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DDQK0O/
I may stand corrected on that point. These look good and at a much lower price than Ive seen. Clearly LED solutions are coming down in price for many specialty applications. LED floods do have generally poorer dispersion patterns but I did say 'floods' rather than 'spots'. But I'll buy a few of these and try them out. Thanks for the link.
It sounds like you should be using LEDs for better colour accuracy, especially if you are doing make-up. LED strips are ideal for that kind of thin.
Appreciate your comment, but dont out-geek me. I design LED lighting, I make my own LED strip lights with custom extrusions and power supplies, source direct all over the world. I know LED lighting. I have a full (and expensive) set of color and brightness measurement tools. When I say my incandescent are better in some cases Im not just blowing anecdotal smoke, its because I have gob-smacks of data that I obtained at considerable effort, instead of taking any lying data sheets word for it.
My bath vanity fixtures were EXPENSIVE. Not some bare-bulb crap from a box store. Yes I can make a reasonably good LED strip version if I invest in machining and casting the specialty glasses, marble and metals, and rebuild the wall board and repaint to cover the mounting changes. But, at the end of the day, a bank of 40W GE Reveals have a very good color balance that works for me, and I replace a few a year at less than a dollar. A LED strip solution, either purchased stock or made custom to match the decor, would have a payback of well over 20 years based on the absolutely minimal power savings.
LED strips on the other hand, at least stock ones, use dropping resistors so they run at 12V-14V in series groups of 3 LED's. The 14V is so they are tolerant in automotive applications or with crap power supplies, which make them operate sub-optimally at 12V. Those piss away a LOT of power as heat, in exchange for the ease of installation. Any efficient use of standard strips requires replacing all the resistors with jumpers, and overdriving the LED's with, say, a 10% duty PWM circuit. Easy enough, but again, its work and money to hit claimed power efficiencies, and I havent seen anyone (except me) bother, and Ive looked hard for a supplier that makes the effort.
No. Thank you. I want my cheap GE Reveals over the vanity. On the other hand, I just rebuilt our walk-in pantry. All custom oak and custom aluminum. There are LED's everywhere. Custom undercabinet strips, custom overheads, custom controllers. Stock power supplies, but from Digikey not GE Lighting which rapes you on cost and quality is still crap. Again, because I tore all GE equipment down and analyzed the design and measure the performance. I used LED's here for the form factor, and for the superior uniformity of light output, not for some paltry cost savings.
If you or anyone else has put this much effort into engineering lighting, I would love to talk with you directly and compare notes, and we'll both learn something. But these technical discussion usually reach an impasse, when proponents of strict draconian laws conclude that "well, for YOU they may not make sense, but all the stupid people will be better off", and I dont hold with that philosophy. Im all for educating the stupid people, not for punishing the smart ones.
They make no sense and CFL's make a ton of sense
They both make sense in different applications. I have vanity lights that take 6 bulbs. They are on only briefly, when shaving or my wife putting on makeup. Color balance is important, as is the instant-on, and they arent on long enough to matter a whit about energy use. Incandescent beats CFL and LED there. I use CFL's anywhere lights are left on for any period of time. And LED's where they are hard to change and color matters. For outdoor floods I use one CFL and one halogen, because they literally take 10 minutes to get anywhere near full bright when its 5 below outside. LED floodlights are crazy-stupid expensive.
If people are too stupid to select the proper bulb technology, I dont think sweeping laws that ignore intended use are the answer to that stupidity. At least I stocked up; four cases of every incandescent I use. Hopefully that sees me through until LED's get better color rendition and come down in price a bit more.
"I see that your heat is higher than your furnace is producing. Would you like is to inform the authorities that your are potentially stealing services?"