C++ was the first popular fast OO language. As such, there's a lot of confusing cruft left behind. Consider overloading the && operator or || operators. You should never do this*. But someone will come along and do it anyway. You can't get rid of the feature because of backwards compatibility and yet it's miserable. We can go down the list from polymorphic arrays to calling virtual functions during constructors. All things one should never do, but the language keeps them there for the sake of backwards compatibility.
Languages like Java fix some of these problems by explicitly not allowing operator overloading (which is heavy-handed) but enforces some readability.
As others have said, using good 3rd party libraries like Qt makes the language tolerable, but in the legacy applications I've supported, there's no shortage of programming faux pas made possible by the language (like assumptions about the order of static variable destructors -- which is compiler dependent). As a programmer, it can be fun and productive since simply using the better parts of the language can make programs easy to write and read. As a maintainer, it's a smorgasbord of bad programming practices which the language makes no attempt to prevent.
That said, Linus really likes the new version of Subsurface based on Qt. So there;)
* Scott Meyers More Effective C++ p.35