Looking out over the next couple of years, 802.11ac at 2.4/5 GHz would be the wireless standard that you need to install - any electronics you buy in that time are going to want that. Infrastructure needs for this are pretty well understood. After that, you'd want to be able to install 802.11ad - infrastructure to that is a bit more difficult. To support it, you'll need 1 or 2 wireless routers per room with a good viewing angle. This, to me, would say that I'd like power and wired network ports in the upper corner of every room. When I built an addition onto my house 10 years ago, the contractor thought I was crazy wanting a power outlet and network tap in the upper corner of each bedroom closet - but it's been an excellent place to locate 5 GHz routers. Adding future nanny cams, microphones for voice control of the house, etc becomes easy with such well located network access points.
Assume that the data provider entries to your house (phone company, cable company, satellite service, TV antenna) need to be provided by you. Run power to the locations, install a good ground rod at each location, run conduit from the locations to your wiring closet. If you hate everyone nailing their own ugly demarc box to your exterior wall, design an acceptable utility entrance that will hide them.
I think Cat 6 and quad-shield RG-6 to one or two wallplates in every room makes sense. For the foreseeable future, broadcast TV (either cable or satellite) is going to get distributed around your house on Coax, not Ethernet, and short of going to Fiber, Cat-6 is about as good as network wiring is going to get. It's also hard to imagine network speeds really needing to be above the 10 Gbit level that you can get with Cat-6. How many 4K video streams do you really expect to ever need on a single port? I don't know that I'd spend the extra money to run conduit to every room - perhaps only to the one or two main media centers of the house. You know that you'll kick yourself if you decide to open up a datacenter in your spare bedroom and need to install multiple single-mode fibers to the rack of raspberry-pi sized servers you install in there, but we can't have everything.
Wire all the doors and windows in the house with alarm wiring, even if you don't plan on installing a system. Make it hidden - magnetic switches embedded in the frames with magnets mortised into the door or window. Run two to every door/window, so a broken wire isn't a critical failure. If you're into christmas lights, prewire outlets under the eaves so you don't end up with extension cords all over the place. It's a good place to install a network jack also, in case you decide to install security lights/cameras.
You didn't ask about environmental design, but I agree with a lot of the posters - spend some time to minimize heating and cooling costs and maximize comfort. Recognize that most HVAC duct design is intended for minimum installed cost, not necessarily minimum 10-year operational cost or comfort. Consider humidity control - for me in Phoenix, it means humidifiers in the initial plan; for someone in Florida, it might mean dehumidifiers in the initial plan. Consider allergen control - a lot easier to implement if it's considered up front. Consider a zoned system with possibly multiple thermostats - in a big house, being able to completely turn off HVAC to unused rooms (rather than shutting the door) can have significant savings.
Consider asking the plumber and electrician to go outside their "install it as cheaply as possible" mindset, and make the systems more user-friendly. As an example, it might cost a few hundred dollars more to wire the house rationally (each circuit breaker controlling outlets in the same room) rather than lowest cost (minimize wire length, even if it means a circuit breaker controls a few outlets in three different rooms, or a single room has three different breakers so you never know which one to throw to turn off power to a specific outlet). It might cost a few hundred dollars more to plumb the house rationally - as a star, rather than point-to-point (case in point: in my master shower, the cold water comes from the water entry point a few feet away, but the hot water goes from that water entry point all the way across the house to the hot water heater, then comes all the way back (after a detour through the second bathroom) to the shower. Any disturbance in water flow anywhere in the house has a disproportionate impact on the hot water flow). Rather than a wiring closet, I'd dearly love to have a "plumbing closet" with cold and hot water manifolds that distribute water to each room (kitchen, bathroom, shower) and individual shutoffs. Ask the plumber to fully insulate all hot water pipes and add a hot water recirculation system if you're putting in central hot water (i.e. solar). Make sure the dishwasher can get immediate hot water - it really sucks if it always fills with water that has cooled in the pipes.
Unfortunately, there really isn't a DC voltage standard for lighting yet. 20 years from now, when solar electric and battery packs are standard, there will presumably be a 24V or 48V standard for house lighting that doesn't require DC->AC conversion, then AC->DC conversion inside the lighting system as we have now. You might want to consider designing in an area near your solar panels so you can intall substantial battery system 5-10 years down the road, however.