Comment DIY or kit? (Score 1) 68
Are you looking for a diy or a more off the shelf setup?
The most straightforward way for off the shelf might be to use a dmx (not the rapper) controlled lighting system. Very common and well documented protocol used to control lighting for commercial and entertainment setups. There are also a few others. Since it is also used extensively in the entertainment business, there might be software off the shelf that will sequence the lights and music. You can easily find usb-dmx controllers for well under a hundred bucks. Another bonus is there are also outdoor rated dmx lights and related components making it safe and easy for you.
Start here then read my rantings below: <url:http://www.instructables.com/id/arduilay/>
Why are you asking about wireless? What exactly do you want to be wireless? Each bulb or strand? Or, do you want the connection between your lights and controller to be wireless?
Either way you need to turn the lights on and off. For that you simply use relays. There are tons of arduino shields out there that feature a few 5 or 10 amp relays which are enough to drive a few strands of incandescent lights lights each. A zigbee shield can be used to make them wireless.
There are also plenty of simple usb controlled relay boards out there as well. I would go that route and possibly try to find one that is already in an enclosure with sockets and over current protection via a fuse or circuit breaker. There might be relay boards that are zigbee or wifi enabled but if you go wireless first: make sure you are not putting a non outdoor nema or iec rated box full of relays outside, exposed to the elements. The nema rating should be 4x and the iec ip rating should be 65 or better. My advice? Use extension cords and locate the relay box indoors.
The usb relay box should come with libraries that you can use to write your own software to control them. Many are just usb-serial devices that use a simple ascii protocol. Usually something like a command character like, followed by an address number for the relay and terminated with a carriage return. If you use an arduino there are probably simple i/o libraries for zigbee but you still might have to roll your own code for the arduino to glue everything together.
Remember for resistive loads like incandescent or basic led lights, watts = volts * amps. So if the relay is rated at 5 amps then the maximum wattage is 120 volts times 5 amps equals 600 watts maximum. If you live in a 230v country then you can double that if the relay is rated for use with 230-240v (they usually are but always check). Also be sure the total load can be handled by the outlet that you are plugging into. Back in the day when i used to get fancy my draw was around 16a. I used a heavy duty 12 awg cord that ran into my basement to a 20a dedicated circuit that came straight out of the panelbox.
If you are looking to control the brightness then it gets tricky. Led christmas lights normally are on a series string with basic current control using a resistor. That is why they have a slight flicker. Those can be dimmed using a few tricks. Ac is not easily varied without elaborate inverters using digital control. But if the load is mainly resistive such as incandescent or cheap led's then you can use a mosfet inside of a bridge rectifier to pwm the ac. Easier and better better than the old phase fired thyristor method of power control. The way it works is you wire a mosfet across the + and - dc "output" of the bridge. The ac terminals of the bridge are put in series with the load. This way you can pwm the ac waveform using a single mosfet. I have not used it outside of a simulator and have seen it only used once to control a tesla coil. But if the led's are current controlled then it won't work as the current controller looks to regulate the brightness of the led's by watching the current and switching the power on and off very rapidly to maintain a constant current. Led christmas lights that don't flicker probably use this method. And in retrospect, led's might flicker too much to be of ant use. In my opinion, don't bother with dimming unless you plan to get really involved with electronics and building your own circuits using mains voltages. And of course, you should be experienced with this type of mains voltage electronics work.
If you want individual bulbs then forget it. It is not impossible. But it is very labour intensive, complex and time consuming.
And lastly, for the actual controller, you can use a raspberry pi, beaglebone black or even the hard kernel odroid-c1. Write your code to play a music file in sync with the lighting routine, might even be libraries or existing software out there.
If you roll your own music player and light sequencer it gets a bit complex. Something like an audio library that can easily load a file and play it while another thread watches the progress and fires off commands in sync to your relay boards. The commands can be stored in a text file, each line containing the time along with the lights to be switched on and off. Make a routine to load and parse each line, separated by carriage returns into an array. Then as you watch your music player progress, fire off the commands in that array index when its time is met and then index the array and reparse those commands into buffers. Only go this route of you are looking to roll your own code. Other than that, i am sure someone has already written an open source music/light controller.
(Rant on)
Btw, slashdot. Fuck you and your lameness filter. My post was blocked for no reason. Simply throwing a lameness filter error with no reason as to what is triggering it is mind boggling and rage inducing. I first tried to paste my post into openoffice, change all the caps to lowercase and then just capitalize sentences to keep it sane. Your shit filter still told me to go fuck myself for no reason given. I simply wrapped code tags around it and bypassed the lame lameness filter. I have been on this site for over 10 years, since 99/2000 and I still have to be treated like a child. Fuck you. (Rant off)