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Comment Re:Kits planes are heavily regulated by FAA (Score 1) 100

My understanding is that kit airplanes fall under the category of experimental aircraft and a different large body of regulations do apply. Including regulations limiting where an experimental aircraft can be flown.

The limitations on where you can fly have been eliminated, at least once you are out of the flight-test phase (7 hours for E-LSA, 25 for E-AB with certified engines, 40 for E-AB with non-certified engines). The prohibition on flying for commercial purposes is still in place.

Comment Re:Making airplanes is all about regulation (Score 3, Informative) 100

That just isn't true; you still need a flightworthiness certificate from the FAA in order to register and (legally) fly the plane. The exceptions are for ultralights, sport aircraft, and aircraft which remain tethered to the ground (see: moller Skycar) or never leave ground effect (see: hovercraft and ground effects planes such as the Ekranoplane - which would be registered as boats).

That isn't certification, though. A certified aircraft (anything factory-built, basically) has to meet very particular standards for performance, function, reliability, etc. That takes a lot of paperwork and testing (I know this because I am an engineer at an aircraft manufacturer). It also requires very tight control of the manufacturing process, and requires that any modifications or deviations be approved.

Homebuilt aircraft are given airworthiness certificates, but that is expressly not a certification. There's a little formality to it, but it's basically a quick check to make sure you didn't do something horribly obviously wrong (like forget to hook up your controls, or leave a wing off, or forget your basic instruments). You're also required to perform some level of test-flying. And even after that's done, you can't carry passengers or cargo for hire, or use the airplane for any commercial purpose (like banner towing or aerial photography).

With a certified light airplane, you get a guarantee that the aircraft meets certain performance and safety standards, a proven flight envelope, greater flexibility with use, and a wider resale market. However, you have to pay a licensed mechanic for all your maintenance (including annual inspections) past things like changing your oil, you have to follow the manufacturer's maintenance program, and making changes or modifications (or even buying replacement parts) can be very expensive.

A homebuilt airplane will generally give you better performance for your money in terms of range, speed, payload, maneuverability, etc., and there are many more options to choose from than on the certified market. It is also much more customizable (you can fit any equipment to it that you want), and the maintenance is much cheaper because you can do it all yourself, even if the airplane is secondhand (except for the annual inspection--you can only do that yourself if you were the primary builder). Homebuilts also tend to have newer, fancier "stuff" than certified airplanes, because you don't have to go through lengthy certification processes to add those things.

On the negative side, homebuilts do not come with that guarantee of performance or safety standards. That doesn't mean that they don't meet them (many do), just that they aren't proven to have done so. They are also subject to varying degrees of build quality--some builders produce amazing stuff, others I wouldn't trust to build a Lego kit properly. Designs with many flying examples (or those from established kit makers) are generally less risky than one-offs; airplanes built closely to plans generally have less risk than those with drastic modifications or unusual engine installations. You also lose flexibility with use; you can't use the airplane for commercial purposes, and your resale market is much smaller--fewer people are willing to buy used homebuilts. And finally (obviously), you have to invest the build time--something that's enjoyable to some, and a nightmare to others.

My dad and I (along with a little help from the rest of the family) built an airplane while I was in high school. I'm now looking to build one myself (albeit a smaller, more affordable one) as soon as I finish saving up the money for the kit.

Comment Re:Air resistance. (Score 1) 1184

There's what's legal on the books, and then what's possible in practice. Outside of a few places that get all of their revenue from giving tickets to out-of-town drivers, I can't think of anywhere that police will stop you for less than 10 over on the interstate.

Most of the longer trips I've taken (on I-95, I-10, I-75...) traffic seems to flow around 75-80mph.

And in places like Atlanta, if you aren't doing at least 10 over, you're putting yourself in danger.

Comment Re:CD Jewel cases (Score 1) 267

I observe that people hold books with their left hand and then lift the cover/turn pages with their right

I'm very definitely right-handed, but I tend to hold the book in my right and flip pages with the left.

I use a "normal" right-handed mouse setup, but I also have a 3D spacemouse for my left hand--a vital tool for doing CAD work.

What's interesting is piloting--single-seat (or tandem-seat) fixed-wing aircraft, all helicopters, and some miltary side-by-side aircraft are set up so that the pilot holds the stick/yoke in the right hand, and the throttles in the left. But as a general rule, in civilian and most transport aircraft, the primary pilot (captain, PIC, etc.) flies from the left side, and holds the stick in his left hand because there's only one set of throttles in the middle. Given a couple hours and landings to adjust, I've never had trouble making the switch from flying one way to flying the other (e.g., flying from the other seat), and neither have any other pilots I've talked to. (Really, the biggest challenge is the different sight picture from the other seat, not the manipulation of the controls)

Comment Re:Why would firefighters need clear? (Score 2) 107

Lighter turnout gear is always a good thing, but given that the greater threat is heated gases (ambient temperature in a fire room can be a few hundred degrees, and you'll operate there for minutes at a time) and some physical protection against contact with hot and/or sharp objects, and seeing that some level of thickness and insulation will be necessary for that, I doubt this will make much of a difference.

Now, if you could somehow significantly increase the breathable air our packs contain, while making the pack itself lighter and less bulky (and yet easy to refill/swap bottles)... that is something we'd be all for.

Comment Re:Why would firefighters need clear? (Score 2) 107

As I understand the situation right now, a firefighter who can't approach a child has the option to remove their mask briefly to try to calm the child down.

I was never taught that, and none of us would ever consider doing that in a fire, because

the mask may not seal properly afterward, or even those few moments with the mask off could burn their face severely.

Not to mention possibly burning our lungs, inhaling smoke and toxic gases, dropping the helmet, etc.

We aren't going to remove helmet and facepiece; we're just going to grab the kid and get him out of there, and worry about calming him down outside, where it's cooler and has breathable air.

Comment Re:Why would firefighters need clear? (Score 2) 107

As a firefighter, I don't really see what benefit this stuff will really bring to us, given that we're already supposed to be covered completely by our turnout gear. We certainly don't have time to go applying it on the way to a call anyway.

Unless maybe it can be applied to the outside of the turnout gear and make it more heat-reflective?

Comment Re:School recommended me. (Score 1) 239

I got mine through school, but just because I signed up for the co-op program and the lady at the desk just happened to know a certain company was visiting the next week. She put me down for the last available interview slot. I walked in completely unprepared, but wound up with an offer. Upon graduating, I was offered a chance to come back at far better pay than I was being offered anywhere else.

With luck, I'll be able to retire here--I don't think I'' find another job with comparable benefits (especially time off and OT) anywhere else.

Comment Re:Life? (Score 1) 615

I quite willingly and happily work more than nine hours a day (I do ten-hour days). In exchange, I get pretty much every Friday off, so I get three-day weekends 40+ weeks per year. I'll spend that little extra time at work Monday through Thursday (after all, I'm already at work, so the day's mostly shot) so I can have a full extra day off.

You'd have to pay me a lot more just to get me to go to a regular five-eights schedule.

Comment Re:8 hours/day came about for a reason (Score 1) 615

I work 4-10s, 0600-1630. I spend the first two hours doing the administrative/minor stuff, and then I get on to actual work. I still get off at a reasonably early time in the afternoon, leaving time for a workout or other things while it's still light out.

I'm also more of a morning person than most; I'd be up early anyway and would rather just go straight to work than sit around for an hour or two, unable to do something too involved because I'm just going to have to go to work soon (like I would for a "traditional" 0800 or 0900 start).

We also get paid (straight time) for hours over 40, so sometimes I'll come in for a half day or so on Friday. Usually, though, I just enjoy the extra 52 days off every year; staying two hours more at work is a tiny price to pay for that.

Comment Re:You must have very large pockets. (Score 2) 214

What is with carrying stuff in your pockets? Do you really carry your smart phone in your pocket?

Yes, and it has an extended battery too. Doesn't matter what kind of pants I'm wearing.

Pockets are nice because they are accessible, can't be accidentally set down or lost, are harder to steal from, and don't scream "look, I have expensive items!". I carry everything in my pockets.

Comment Re:Not an assault rifle (Score 4, Informative) 666

Who says anyone is "spraying and praying" all over? One shot is one shot, and neither the bullet nor the game animal cares what mechanism cycles the next round into the chamber. Lots of people (myself included) hunt with semiautos, not out of some crazy "must shoot everything in sight" urge, or a need to make up for poor shooting skills, but rather just because we already have one, it works fine, and there's no sense buying another rifle just to hunt.

The AR-10/AR-15 family is actually quite well-suited to hunting use (provided appropriate ammunition is used for the desired game), if you put aside asinine drivel about "spraying lead everywhere". Here's why:

Synthetic stocks are less susceptible to warping due to humidity and temperature changes.

Adjustable stocks (as commonly found on these rifles) make them usable by a wide range of ages and body types. My 6'3" friend and his 5'1" wife can easily use the same rifle to hunt, despite the large disparity in size.

The gas operation and large buffer tube reduce felt recoil, making it more comfortable for small or new shooters.

The placement and operation of the safety mean that it can be operated easily while already sighted on a target, unlike many bolt-action rifles where the safety is high on the receiver, or even on the back of the bolt. The safety can also be left engaged while loading and unloading, helping reduce the chances of accidental firing.

The detachable magazine makes loading and unloading much easier and reduces the chance of dropping cartridges while fumbling with the floorplate of a fixed magazine, or repeatedly cycling rounds through the action. Not only does this improve safety during these evolutions, but people are also more likely to follow safety rules like unloading when crossing ditches or fences, or climing into/out of tree stands.

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