To see the real PPC you'll want not to go see the 'Z' but see the 'P' and the 'i'. Look for iSeries, pSeries or more currently POWER systems on the front. In there you will find the worlds fastest microprocessors up to 5 Ghz 64 bit multi-core and all that. But they aren't descendants of the 68K family as others have noted.

Absolutely correct, it is MUCH greener. Standard HVAC wisdom is that it is always cheaper to MOVE heat than to MAKE heat. That is what the COP (Co-efficient of performance) number is indicating. A Heat Pump with a COP of 1.0 is exactly as efficient as that electric floor heater you buy at the local hardware. 1 KWH in yields 3413 BTU of heat. Now use that electricity to run a GEO unit with an overall COP of say 4 (Very doable and includes well or other pumping costs.) and you get 13,652 BTU for the same fossil fuel input.

AND most of these units can take the heat pulled from the house in the summer and put it into a hot water tank for DHW use. Really and truly $FREE hot water.

We have used Geothermal since 1992 and it is wonderful. We use our home's well (only 80 ft deep) which stays +-1 from 10C for the source. The unit not only is very quiet it also produces most DHW for the house whenever it's in use. Our electric coop gives a $0.03/KWH discount for Geo users making it even more attractive. Theoretically the unit can handle temps down to about -12C before resistance backup kicks in but we have them turned off and have never noticed even this past week when temps hit -23C in Michigan. In the winter the water goes down a dry well while in the summer the water warmed by the heat-pump is re-routed and used for irrigation. In addition to the Geo unit we installed a Heat Pump water heater in July to provide hot water when the Geo heat-pump isn't running (or running enough) This is a unit that provides roughly $3 worth of hot water for $1 of electricity when compared to a standard electric water heater. (No discount from the coop on that unfortunately) Payback is tracking about 2 years right now on this unit. Our house is 100% electric - no gas in our area.

In fact I have done this many years ago. The PSU is on the wall in the basement and the extra pairs of my (ancient) cat-3 infrastructure extend the 5, 7, and 12 volts to the wall jacks. The only wall-wart supplies not removed were for PC speakers which hum when powered from the PSU. The PSU is then connected to a UPS in the basement which means my cordless phones still work in a power outage and don't beep because they can't find the base unit when the power is out. I also calculated approximately $50 power savings annually due to the phenomenal inefficiency of all but the very latest brick power supplies.