Ooooh...touched on a sore subject for me there. I _HAD_ a 7797 phone, but the store I bought it from had gotten it from an AT&T provider, but it was compatible (at the time) with US Cellular. It worked great for a while, until some weirdness in the programming (due to being an AT&T phone on a non-AT&T carrier) it stopped working. I brought it back to the store, they sent it in to be fixed. I waited, waited, kept getting the run around until they finally said they LOST it (the Bastards!). Gave me a comsumerized style StarTac, the TimePort I believe, to replace it. It may have been newer, and "better", but I didn't care. I wanted my StarTac back, or an equivalent model back. I never even activated that phone.

TL;DR I too had a StarTac 7797...HAD being the operative word.

Drivers? I don't even think the damn things will boot, let alone have the proper drivers.

The only "Universal" OSX discs are the ones you buy in a little box from the store, not the ones you get with the PC. Those are for that model and revision of Mac only.

My neon was stolen. 1995 2.0L SOCH with a manual transmission, windows, and locks. Nothing special about it except an aftermarket deck (which was still there, though busted).

My roommate was throwing a party (which I was at). As best as we could tell, while hanging out in the living room after everyone left, some fucker took my spare key from the garage and drove my car right out of the driveway. Seems they used it to either get home or to the next party, because the next morning my car was ticketed for being parked illegally. I didn't realize it was stolen until a few hours after that happened, then immediately called it in. My car got ticketed twice more before a connection was made, and I was notified they found it. Thinking about it now, I bet they were going to tow it and finally ran the plates, at which point it came up as reported stolen.

Geez guys, all the hullabaloo is a matter of interpretation. I would be correct in saying that 12 gauge (AWG) wire is smaller than 4 gauge (AWG) wire, even when the numbers are inverse in their size. Therefore, a 28 gauge shotgun, with it's higher number, is smaller than a 12 gauge shotgun, with it's smaller number.

Therefore, the OP's typo of a .20 gauge shotgun would indeed be quite powerful, and only needed to be pointed out as a typo. Unfortunately, you then tried to correct him on his correct statement of a .22 caliber rifle (aka, "22 long rifle" I bet), and this got your shit jumped by everyone else about your whole post.

Of course, Buelldozer's comment about "The smaller the gauge of a shotgun the LESS powerful it is" sounds backwards, when you take it at face value (12ga < 28ga) When you take it "correctly", it's correct: A (smaller gauge, bigger#) 28ga shotgun is LESS powerful than a (bigger gauge, smaller#) 12ga shotgun.

<sarcasm>
<rant>
Holy FSM, it's annoying when someone on the internet is wrong. Even worse when there's 2 of them.
</rant>
</sarcasm>

It should be, but then (as noted in my other comment here

If you look at the packaging, you can see the name/logo is an anagram AND is a purposeful misspelling of "i poo'd!" (aka: "i pooped!" abbreviated). This gives you "iPood!", which when the package is inverted, still reads as "iPood!" due to the font used.

You wouldn't get to be a witty company by coming up with a clever name...which it turns out bothers Apple Inc.

yeah, but would we even be having this conversation if it was called "!Poodi"?

No...but we speak english here, not spanish, so we put our exclamation points at the end of our sentences. And they're both upside down. Otherwise, you have a good point.

Seriously?? It's a shovel to bury your shit with.

Let me tell you a quick rhetorical story: I had to shit. I poo'd. I buried my poop with an iPood! shovel.

I bet you'll tell me that "Anti Monkey Butt Powder", um, butt powder, and "Cat Crap" anti-fog lens treatment are incredibly tasteless too.

I beg to differ. I was just looking at one of these the other day, and have actually considered getting one in the past when prepping for a camping trip, due in no part to associating it with Apple Computers. If you look at the packaging, you can see the name/logo is an anagram AND is a purposeful misspelling of "i poo'd!" (aka: "i pooped!" abbreviated). This gives you "iPood!", which when the package is inverted, still reads as "iPood!" due to the font used.

The product itself is a well designed solution to the problem of chintzy plastic shovels sold for the purpose of digging a scat hole. It's made of aluminum for light weight, collapsible for small size, and named well for it's intended purpose, "I poo'd (in the woods)!"

Sheep. Not goats, it was sheep he castrated. With. His. Teeth.

Still makes the boys shrivel up just thinking about it.

Amen to that. There's movies I have on DVD/BD (or ::ahem:: a "time-shifted rental") that I can see anytime I want to, but what if I just catch it on TV? Strangely enough, I'll sit there and watch it, even with the commercials added and it having been edited for "time and content". It's not quite the same, but it is still the same story as the uncut, and I still enjoy seeing it again.

There's a surprising bit here which you didn't touch on, nor did the other AC. You had one cable modem active on your account, then bought the new modem at the store. Activated it, used it, then returned it and started using your old modem. You could have just left out the part about having to re-activate the old modem, but considering the new purchasers of the modem were able to get online and it was tied to your account still, makes me think you didn't have to. I can see the new owners actions...plug in the modem, go online to activation page..."Hey, it works already! Sweet!". If they were smart enough to put 2&2 together, they would have realized they're now getting free internet AND won't have to worry about any DCMA notices for P2P usage. Once it stopped working, they could get a new modem and activate it normally. Obviously since they just called in to cust service...that wasn't the case. To summarize, bad cable company.

I'd like to say no, it doesn't. I moved out of my friend's basement a few months ago, and I'm paying my own electric bill now. This has made me more conscious of the power usage of things like leaving my PC powered on, idling, but still wasting power/money AND spewing out heat...especially because now my A/C has to run long to cool things down when I get home, wasting more power/money. Considering my first month's electric bill/usage was 1/4 from my PC running 24/7, it seemed prudent to start shutting it off at night, and leaving it off until the next evening.

Wait, erm, um...

I [snip] found that I was unable to feed it to my playstation because the BD+ DRM was too new for my ripper to support.

What?? Sorry, I started responding before I finished reading your comment...

I haven't even bothered to put the bluray in the PS3, so I don't even know if it will play properly.

You're complaining why?? I don't expect AnyDVD HD, DVDFab, or any other DRM cracking software to support new DRM the day the disk is released. As it turns out, http://www.dvdfab.com/en/news/7 DVDFab does. But the fact that your software didn't work? Sounds like the DRM was working just fine, nothing to complain about there. If it didn't work on your PS3? Well, then get your soapbox out.

The iPhone can't be switched to "Disk mode", or whatever it is where you can drag and drop music onto it. It only functions in "Managed/sync mode", where you have to select playlists or criteria of songs to sync to the phone. This also means that since that particular iTunes library is managing those playlists, you can't plug it into another PC with iTunes and drag and drop (or copy a playlist...say a new CD you bought over lunch or borrowed from a coworker and ripped at work) to your phone.

That seems unlikely. In my experience as a tax preparer (and tax filer), you get your federal refund a week after the Friday after you file your return. You file on Thursday, it'll be a week'ish before you see your money. You file on Friday, you won't see it for nearly 2 weeks.

You can get _money_ earlier, but it's not your 'Refund' from the IRS...it's generally a loan product from somewhere, then they get the refund to pay off the loan.

YMMV, I've been wrong before, etc, etc.