Depends on the power supply - some Corsair models, for example, can deliver more power than rated and stay intact for some time (just that the efficiency falls below what is needed for the 80+ silver or whatever certification).

I have four APC UPSs - Smart-UPS v/s 650, Smart-UPS 700, 2200, 3000. These are older models, 10-15 years old. They work fine, but all have one design problem - poor cooling.

Smart-UPS v/s 650 has no ventilation holes and get very hot inside, I use CSB HRL series batteries (longer life and higher discharge efficiency) and even they fail quickly. I solved the problem by drilling ventilation holes in the case and attaching a fan to one side of the UPS.

Smart-UPS 700 has ventilation holes but no fan. Attaching a fan made the batteries last longer.

The big UPSs have fans, but the fans only operate when the UPS is discharging or charging. It does not matter that the battery temperature is 40C or higher otherwise. I modified these UPSs to spin the fan at a lower speed always and at full speed during charge/discharge. Solved the short battery life problem.

If the first bomb fails, you don't keep mailing bombs hoping one succeeds, you have to figure out why the bomb failed and fix that problem before you try a second time or some other method of achieving the same goal.

Which means a drive to the server room instead of logging in via ssh and fixing /etc/fstab so /home or /tmp points correctly.

I am similar to the OP in that sunlight makes me want to sleep. I am better at night, but my work is standard 8-17, so I can do stuff at night only on weekends and vacations. The weird thing to me is that I can be sleepy all day, but when the night comes I no longer want to sleep.

However, I have solved the waking up problem, at least for me. I have created a playlist of a few songs (~30min in length) that starts out slow and quiet and finishes with a louder song. I set it to auto play 25 minutes before I need to wake up. The "turn off" button is 4 meters away from my bed. I sometimes wake up when song #1 is playing, sometimes during song #2 and sometimes on the second-to-last song, but I manage to wake up and not be tired or need coffee (I do not like coffee, I drink a lot of tea though). I guess the 25 minutes of music manages to "catch" me in a sleep phase from which it is easy to wake up.

Also, to accommodate my wish to stay up later and need to wake up early I get a 3 hour nap after coming from work (18:00-21:00), then stay up until 00:00, go to sleep and wake up at 05:45. During vacations I go to sleep at 14:00 and wake up at 22:00.

I agree with that.

Actually, you should not infringe his right to bear the state of the art weapons, the same ones that the military has.

18th century muskets and rifles were state of the art in 18th century - both the military and private individuals used the same weapons.

Why would you go through all the effort needed to make a bomb out of water if you can use gasoline or (better) LPG for that? Those are already explosive and nobody is going to care why you are buying 60L provided it first goes into the fuel tank of your car.

This. Every time I see a complaint that "some tool" makes it harder for "marketing companies" to send email I think that I should use that tool for my email servers if I am not doing that already.

Pretty much nobody wants to get spam and that includes the marketing emails, not just the regular "vi@gr@" and "Nigerian prince" spam. Pretty much nobody cares that you do honor the "unsubscribe" link, because a lot of others don't, so it is much easier to just tag your email as spam and hope to never see it again.

Last time I checked, not a lot of games supported keyboard+mouse control on either Playstation or Xbox and it is the most convenient way to play FPS or strategy or point and click adventure games.

It doesn't cost 25BTC to mine the block. Mining the block generates brand new 25BTC. Transaction fees are added to that, so the miner receives slightly more than 25BTC.

Without backward compatibility, Windows loses one of the major selling points.

And the software might check for Windows 9x just so it can display an error that Windows 9x is not supported by said application.

64 bit Windows do not support 16bit applications, so any software that runs on Windows 3x will not run on Windows 30, unless Microsoft goes back to supporting 16bit software on 64bit releases or still has a 32bit version of Windows 30.

The old devices are not deliberately restricted. I usually buy an older device that suits my needs instead of a new one for this reason and because if is easier to repair when it does fail.

Let's say I have an old tape deck. It is what it is, the sound quality or functions are not artificially restricted. If I want to I can improve it beyond the original specifications, but that requires modifying it. Same with my car - if it does not have some part then it doesn't, if I want to I can install it and use the new function.

Compare that to, say, modern phones. Android is very similar to Linux, but I cannot get a root shell on my own phone (without modifying it) even though it is physically capable of this, but that feature is restricted by the manufacturer. For example, I have a video file that plays without sound on an Android tablet because the sound codec is not supported. Decoding sound does not take a lot of CPU power, so I should be able to just install the codec as I can do on a PC, but it is restricted.

12V needs thick wires, just look at the wires that are used for car audio amps. This is because 1) Lower voltage means higher current for the same power and 2) Lower voltage means lower allowed voltage drop on the wire.

Let's say the wire is 20 meters long (probably reasonable for my house, since the wire does not go in the shortest possible distance) and I need 10A (100-120W) If I want to keep the voltage drop at 1V (resulting in 91% efficiency), I would need a 7mm^2 wire. For 1kW I would need 70mm^2 wire. Or run 230V in parallel with 12V = more wiring.

For LED lights, the best solution would be the power supply (230V -> whatever the LED needs) to be part of the fixture, or a module that plugs in the fixture.

I use some long life bulbs (rated for 3000h) and the efficiency rating for them is "G" IIRC, while regular bulbs have efficiency rating of "E". OTOH, I like the lower color temperature of the long life bulbs, something I could not have with halogens (since lowering their temperature shortens the life).