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Comment Re:Understanding dose-response (Score 1) 251

questions for you: Does BPA get whizzed out pretty quickly, or does the liver get a chance to turn it into all sorts of other nasty stuff first? If a baby mouse is dosed with BPA, is it still in its system when it hits puberty? As opposed to drinking soda, how about people (adults, hopefully) who work with epoxy? Epoxy generally starts as two liquids you mix together, one of them is generally practically pure BPA or a related compound. Would skin exposure be an issue - likesay molding that JB weld using your hands? Or dripping the stuff while you're doing the 'glassing' step of making fiberglass? How about inhalation of partly cured epoxy sanding dust? Inquiring surf board makers want to know. (this one wears gloves, a respirator, long sleeves, etc)

Comment Re:Bad Feeling (Score 1) 249

I'd say that the pharma industry is no more corrupt than any other regulated industry - it's just that pharma corruption is so much more asinine. Also, the reason pharma companies do marketing directly to consumers: it works. People see the ads and actually do pester their doctors about getting switched to the spiffy new medicine they saw on TV. There's also a more subtle reason: according to a marketing study I read about, the ads remind people to take their pills and then buy more.

Comment Re: coasting in neutral vs coasting in gear (Score 1) 1234

well, the 'puter in my Mazda puts me at ~ 70 mpg when coasting in neutral at 20 mph, and something similar when in gear. At 65 mph that would put me at over 200 mpg for neutral(the 'puter goes offscale at 99mpg). If I was driving over mountain passes each day it might be worth it to figure out which is more efficient, but for normal commuting the difference in fuel consumption will be negligable. It's all burned while accelerating/maintaining speed, not while coasting and braking. If I coast for 2 miles a day in neutral at an average of 100mpg, vs the engine burning NO gas at all for those same miles it would save me all of 7 gallons a year. A new clutch will cost me close to a grand, putting extra wear on it to save 20 or 40 dollars a year is penny wise/pound foolish. For braking moderately I let the engine brake the car til the rpms get low, then just take it out of gear. I'm not sure about shifting at lower RPMs either. It means shifting well below the torque peak when your engine is not at its most efficient for accelerating. You end up having to put your foot down further to accelerate at all, and then you have to keep it there longer to get up to speed. The 'puter says I do better when I use a lighter foot and stay in a lower gear a bit longer, shifting in the high 2000's rather than the low 2000's (2.3l 4 cyl, 5sp manual). It might be more applicable if you're driving 6+cylinders.

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