I've been planning on buying a new car for over a year as my existing vehicle was getting to the point that repairs were starting to get big, expensive, and plentiful. I have been watching the EV market for a couple of years and finally took the plunge. I selected a Hyundai Ioniq 6 after a ton of research and test driving. Most of my decision making was standard big purchase car standard, and not specific to EV. The EV-specific stuff is below and really the only thing that might interest people.
EVs have been politicized in American culture. With gov't incentives and even some State mandates, our "you, especially gov't, can't tell me what to do" DNA kicks into overdrive. While the saying used to be "You can have your own opinions, you can't have your own facts", in about the mid-2010s conservatives went "hold my beer" and fully embraced "alternative facts" and yes, then they DID claim to have their own facts. Combine that with the "just asking" trend of not understanding the difference between "possible" and "probable", and flooding the field with manufactured "issues", when my wife understood that I was leaning towards an EV, I had to address her concerns. After all, we both had old friends who've gone off the deep end with "conservative" and anything that "owns the libs" they push around, actual facts be damned.
That being said, the various "issues" we wanted to research to see if they were real or imagined, were: horrible charge times, cold weather vehicle range, fire risk, towing range, being towed, excess vehicle weight, and excessive registration fees. These are in addition to normal car-buying concerns of insurance cost, financing, and service availability.
I'm going to address these in order of ease of answer.
[Towing Range]
While the Rivian R1T and Ford F150 lightning were vehicles I considered, once I ruled them out then anything towing-related was no longer a concern. I've towed one thing in the last 7 years and don't anticipate doing it again.
[Being Towed]
The disinfo going around is that if you tow an EV you'll destroy the drive train so you will always need a flat-bed, and then be prepared to wait longer and to pay more. The truth is this isn't an EV issue, it is an AWD/4WD issue. For a FWD/RWD car, EV or not, you need to put it in neutral and hoist the drive end or you're destroy the transmission. As someone who has had Jeeps and other 4WD vehicles for decades, I am used to having to request a flat-bed for a tow.
[Excessive Registration Fees]
West Virginia charges a $200 fee for registering an EV. I don't consider that excessive since our road maintenance is paid for with fuel (gas/diesel) taxes, and I'm no longer buying fuel but still using the roads, this seems fair to me.
[Excessive Vehicle Weight]
I've seen lots of disinformation out there about EVs being heavier so they damage the roads more and thus should be charged more in fees. This is factually incorrect. The average EVs are slightly heavier than mid-sized ICE sedans, but well under the standard American pick-up truck or SUV. To prove this, I went to Kelly Blue Book's site to get vehicle sales numbers for 2023, then either the manufacturer's website or Edmunds.com to get the vehicle curb weights. The short answer is the #1, 2, and 3 sales figures in the U.S. are for pickup trucks: the Ford F-Series, Chevy Silverados, and Ram (nee Dodge) series, and they're all heavier than most EVs. Only the Tesla X Plaid compares -- well, and the F-150 Lightning, Rivian R1T, and Hummer EV, but if you can afford $80,000 - $120,000 for a vehicle, you can afford a weight tax. So NOT cherry-picking super expensive, extra large vehicles gets us this:
Kelley Blue Book - 25 Best-Selling Cars of 2023, So Far (07/17/2023)
Curb Weights from either Edmunds.com or Manufacturer's site
Rank, Make/Model, Units Sold YTD, Curb Weight in Pounds
- Ford F-Series (212,516) - 4,021 - 5,886# Depending on cab style & engine
- Chevy Silverado (140,076) - 4,750 - 5,600# Depending on cab style & engine
- Ram Pickup (117,699) - 4,765 - 6,439# Depending on cab style & engine
- Tesla Y (105,500) - 4,415#
- Toyota RAV4 (102,313) - 3,450#
- Honda CR-V (96,456) - 3,926#
- Toyota Camry (84,705) - 3,340#
- GMC Sierra(75,810) - See Silverado Numbers, Same Truck, Different Badge
- Nissan Rogue (71,246) - 3,616#
- Jeep Grand Cherokee (70,454) - 4,413#
For Comparison Select EVs
- Hyundai Ioniq 6 (4,990) - 3,950 - 4,650# Depending on trim level
- Tesla Model 3 (63,001) 3,582 - 4,065# SR, LR+P
[Fire Risk]
Lots of scary stories out there about Lithium fires and how EVs are so dangerous and can spontaneously combust. While Lithium is a metal, and the fires are seriously challenging, the simple fact is EVs are less likely than ICE or Hybrids to catch fire. According to the NTSB, there are an average of over 200,000 vehicle fires in the U.S. each year, with ICE cars being the most both in absolute terms (because they are the most on the road). You don't read about them every day because there are over 600 every day and that is "dog bites man" and isn't NEWS anymore. EVs are new and even though SAFER and cause fewer fires per mile driven, they're a novel "man bites dog" and thus make the news. Battery-electric vehicles are only .03% likely to ignite, compared to 1.5% for gas-powered vehicles and 3.4% for hybrid vehicles. CarsDover summarizes the NTSB statistics nicely.
[Cold Weather Range]
I live in the eastern panhandle of West Virginia. We have winter, where it can routinely fall below freezing, but normally doesn't get frigid or below 0F. Still, I need to get around in the winter and it is common knowledge that batteries don't like excessive cold temperatures. Temperatures like this do affect gasoline cars, and the frigid stuff can turn diesel into jello in the fuel lines, but how does it really affect a new EV?
According to these two articles in Consumer Reports, the first from 2019 and the second from 2021, it most certainly does. Anywhere from 20% to 40% depending on just how cold we're talking about. Below 20F is when it starts to really kick in, so if you routinely have winters that stay well below freezing, this is an important consideration. In my case, it doesn't normally get that cold here. However, I also don't have an enclosed garage and park in my driveway, so the car is exposed to the elements and outdoor temperatures.
But, I work remotely and thus don't regularly drive into an office. If I do need to go in, I take the commuter train for the 60 miles, with the train station being only 2 miles away from my house. With me normally averaging less than 10-20 miles of driving a day, we were comfortable with the possible range loss. InsideEVs has a couple of superb articles with real-world testing of specific vehicles and details on how they each react in both charging and running. The first is from 2020, and the second a follow-up from late 2022.
[Horrible Charge Times]
One of the biggest complaints by ICE supporters is that they can fill their gas tank up in 5 mintues and be back on the road, but it could take anywhere from half-an-hour to multiple DAYS to fill up an EV. And that's assuming you don't have to wait for a free charge bay. Why would anyone do that? The short answer is, no one does. IF, like me, you own a house, you install a Level 2 charger and charge at home. I had space capacity, so didn't need to upgrade my electrical service to do this. In all my years I've never known ANYONE who has their own gas pump in their garage. I have a charger at the end of my driveway. It takes me an extra 30 seconds after I park from my last trip of the day to plug the car in. How long does it take to charge? I'd have to look because the car manages that overnight when I'm asleep. In the morning it is always topped off.
And if you don't own a house and use public charging stations? Well, first of all you're going to be paying retail rates for electricity prices. For Electrify America (EA), the largest non-Tesla charging network, and who is owned by Volkswagen, that's $0.48 per kWh guest rate, $0.36 per kWh subscribed "member" rate. Or back to "bend over and insert nozzle" big company greed. How long to charge? It depends on the rating of the charger you're at. For me I've used the common 350 kW super fast and 150 kW fast public chargers and they bring me from 20% - 80% in 15 and 35 minutes respectively. Fortunately Hyundai throws in 2 years of free charging with EA as a promotion so I get a 30-minute fast charge session a day for $0 for the next 2 years, which is why I know the charge times for those chargers.
As a sidebar, almost all cars use lithium-ion batteries, and those don't like to be regularly charged to 100%, or let drop below 20%, if you want to maximize their lifespan. My car is set to normally "top off" to 80% charge. In the app I can tell it to "trip charge", meaning I'm going on a longer trip and bring me to 100%. I can also schedule that, telling the car next Friday to bring me to 100% because I'm going to go on a weekend trip.
[Fuel Cost Stability]
Now, some people live in places that not only have time-of-day variable pricing on electricity, but demand pricing. That means the cost of electricity can vary depending on overall usage in the area and can change on an hourly basis. Gasoline at the pump has always been that way, with pricing changing depending on which way the wind blows. But some of us live in areas that have regulated utilities and it takes and act of the State Legislature to change electricity prices. It can be a year or more for some places to get an electricity rate increase. This means my costs to fuel up are stable and predictable, unlike some of my friends who bemoan seasonal, if not weekly or DAILY, gas price changes.
[Fuel Convenience and Speed]
One of the biggest complaints by ICE supporters is that they can fill their gas tank up in 5 minutes and be back on the road, but it could take anywhere from half-an-hour to multiple DAYS to fill up an EV. And that's assuming you don't have to wait for a free charge bay. Why would anyone do that? The short answer is, no one does. IF, like me, you own a house, you install a Level 2 charger and charge at home. In all my years I've never known ANYONE who has their own gas pump in their garage. I have a charger at the end of my driveway. It takes me an extra 30 seconds after I park from my last trip of the day to plug the car in. How long does it take to charge? I'd have to look because the car manages that overnight when I'm asleep. In the morning it is always topped off.
[Fuel Cost]
Please tell me if I screwed up my math. I still have flashbacks of my high school science teacher with a disappointed look, shaking his head lamenting my innate abilities to invert units and totally screw up equations. Here I'm just multiplying tank/battery size by price per gallon/kWh of gasoline/electricity to get price to fill from empty. Then dividing that number by the range in miles to get cost per mile to drive. You can do your own math for your area's fuel prices.
According to Hyundai's spec site, all three versions of the Ioniq 6 have 77.4 kWh battery system capacity. The version I have, the Limited AWD, has a spec range of 270 miles, and that's about what I've been getting so far, plus or minus depending on how aggressively I'm driving. Living in West Virginia, I have fairly cheap electricity rates, but no variable pricing. That is a flat rate of $0.116 per kWh of electricity regardless of time of day or night, residential outside-city-limits tariff rate, plus tax. Including tax would bring me up to $0.12 per kWh. So, simply multiplying 77.4 by 0.12 (canceling out like units) gives me $9.29 to "fill" my car up from dead empty and that allows me to drive about 270 miles without charging. That works out to be about $0.034 per mile of fuel cost for the charged-at-home EV.
For an unfair, but real comparison with my directly previous vehicle, a Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ came with a 26 gallon fuel tank. As it is a Flex Fuel vehicle, E85 in my area was right around $2.999 per gallon. Regular unleaded (E10) was around $3.499, though gas prices change so often you can do your own math. Nevertheless, that means between $78 - $98 to fill up from dead empty. However, the range varied from between about 315 to 400 total miles with the E85 getting the shorter range and E10 getting the longer. That gives me about $0.245 per mile of fuel cost for my gas hog truck with almost no difference in cost per mile based on fuel choice. No surprise there.
To be fairer with the vehicle type, my previous previous vehicle was a manual-transmission VW Jetta TDI. I was getting about 40 mpg with their emissions-cheating turbo diesel, but could hyper-mile up to 50 mpg on a long road trip. That lead to me destroying a clutch plate with too much dicking around with the clutch, so I'm not going to count that and go with the 40 mpg, which was real measurement versus the EPA 32 mpg rating. The Jetta had a 14.5 gallon fuel tank. So 40 x 14.5 gave me about 580 miles of range and that sounds about right. That Jetta would go forever! However, we're talking the more expensive diesel at $4.199 per gallon, or $60.89 to fill up and $0.105 per mile to drive.
All of that works out to be 3-times cheaper to drive of the barest bones, manual transmission, turbo diesel, butt-busting fuel sipper. God, I loved driving that car! Then a full 8-times cheaper to drive than what is the 2nd most popular vehicle for sale in America today -- beaten only by Ford's F150 and followed immediately by Ram's 1500. American's do love their pickup trucks.
[EV Driving]
So, trying to focus on just the differences of an EV and filtering out what is really just 10 year newer tech and a higher end trim, there are just a couple of things: regenerative braking, noise and vibration, and power.
[Regenerative Braking]
This is adjustable and can go from "off", where the car will coast just like taking your foot off an ICE gas pedal, to one-pedal drive where it'll start to "brake" when you lift your foot and bring you to a complete stop in short order as it captures energy back to the battery. The level is controlled by paddle shifters on the steering wheel. It tooks me about three days driving to get used to how it worked and another day or two to get fully comfortable. I almost never use the traditional friction brakes at all which means I'll be replacing the brake pads sometime around never. One less thing to service.
[Noise and Vibration]
There isn't any. Well, there is this ethereal tone the car plays because it is required by law to make noise so you don't sneak up on people and kill them. There are options for graduated engine sounds in case you go thru withdrawls. But the car is just SILENT and it is a thing of beauty. Now, the Tesla has fart mode, and the day Hyundai lets me change the sound it plays then The Jetson's car, here I come!
The car has push-button start, which I've used before on ICE cars, but this has been the hardest habit for me to break. I'm used to "push button until you feel engine vibration" but there IS NO engine in an EV. Turning it on is like turning on a silent PC -- the screen blinks on and you're ready to go. You can add certain on/off sounds and I had to do that to train myself to actually turn the car OFF when I get out. Again, think silent PC.
[Power]
And then the thing that electric motors do well. Instant torque and instant response. In "Sport" mode, the 0-60 time is just over 4 seconds, which earned me "you're never to do that again when I'm in the car" from my wife, but that doesn't really communicate the full experience. Even after more than a century of refinement, an internal combustion engine is a fundamentally limited device. It can't change speeds quickly or easily so needs gears of different ratios to compensate. The transmission in an EV is a single speed and just acts to redirect torque to the different wheels. It doesn't do anything else. If you want to go faster, the motor just spins faster. Backwards? The motor just spins backwards. But an ICE needs to coordinate the fuel flow for the little explosions that drive the shaft and timing for all of that, plus different gear ratios all because an ICE engine can't just "spin faster". Typical RPMs for an ICE road car are between 2,000 and 5,000. An Indycar can rev up to 12,000 rpm. The electric motor in the Ioniq 6 hits 15,000 rpm. Electric performance cars top 21,000.
What I'm getting at is there is no downshift to move faster to pass; no lag when you step on the accelerator before you move; the control stick-shift enthusiasts brag about is matched and even beaten by just a couple of inches of movement of a driver's foot on an EV. The torque is immediate and it just feels natural. Step on the accelerator and move. Step hard, move immediately. Step more, move faster. Nothing in-between you and the speed. You're one with the car. Even at slow speeds, the immediate response is what gives the feel of "this is the way things should be".
Once you get used to that, going back to an IC engine feels downright primitive. There's all this noise and vibration and lag, like you have to hire a translator to communicate what you want. Don't get me wrong, after a century IC engines are a thing of mechanical mastery. But the simple fact is they need a couple THOUSAND extra precision machined, lubricated, tuned, and maintained parts all working in perfect harmony to come close to what a dozen or so EV parts are doing just by themselves.
I've driven the future and it is electric. ICE vehicles are rapidly on their way to being ever fading niche solutions.