I realise there's a low quota of hardware nerds on here, but most electronics gets washed on the production line to remove flux and contaminants.
The biggie with *any* electronics is to not use anything that causes damage or corrosion, and to have the device powered off until it's absolutely dry (if using water) to prevent shorts or electrolytic corrosion.
The best thing is isopropyl alcohol, aside from being a bit of a hazard to some paint/stickers etc. it's about the top thing for cleaning electronics.
Another point about static engines is they are designed with far longer running hours than most motorbike engines - chances are someone will have thrown it at a tree before it's done 50k whereas a genset may have to run for some hours a day, every day for decades.
There are crossovers - the International HS 2.8 4cyl turbodiesel is a re-jig of the Land Rover 300TDi engine, which was a re-jig of the 200TDi, all excellent engines and well proven, although not light (well, not by european standards... cough). Crops up in some Ford trucks around the world, as well as updated army Land Rovers, also available in "generator" spec - could be worth looking at what the differences are.
- Batteries are rubbish at storing energy compared to fossils, so replacing loadsa batteries with a fossil-powered generator is actually not a bad idea for giving range & quick "recharge" (refuel).
- The power needed to accelerate a vehicle is many times that needed to keep moving, if the battery can pick up the slack during these brief peaks then you can use a much smaller engine/generator than the original motor to run the thing.
- Making "flexible" engines is a compromise. Car engines have to work across a broad operating range, which is not so easy as making an engine that is good at one constant speed, hence why static/generator engines have a very different power curve (everything arrives at or around their operating point, say 1500rpm, and nothing much outside of that). The suggestion of using a 3cyl Lupo engine is good, but you may get even better economy from a dedicated generator lump.
Someone said that direct mechanical coupling (engine-gearbox-wheels) is much more efficient than engine->generator->elec.motor->wheels, however if you take the average yank SUV into account (big auto box & 4WD transfer case in the way) you may not be that far away. If you can go to wheel motors and cut out the propshafts & axle diffs then all the better.
That's about the extent of what I know on the subject, but don't let the naysayers in comments tell you it's dumb. Also check out SimonR's electric freelander (small SUV) on LR4x4.com as an example of a DIY electric car build.
My god, a man talking sense rather than rushing off into wacky techno solutions...
For my 2p's worth I'd ask what's wrong with a £50 laptop off eBay with wireless, and then plug the line out into either some small & cheap PC speakers, or a reasonable amp & speaker combo depending on the required volume / quality.
If they can laser etch messages then the next step is using it to remove blemishes, enhance the appearance, and effectively "photoshop" food to make it appear more photogenic.
Then again, am I the only one who thinks this could be the next step in tattoo art - never mind some hairy goth with a needle, give me a CNC laser that can print my choice of design onto my arm at 1200dpi and I might consider it.
I'm in the UK so have enough police state bollocks to worry about locally.
E = MC ** 2 +- 3db