The Blues for LEDs 475
Corey Burger writes "Seems somebody rolled out of bed on the wrong side today. The Globe and Mail's Ian Johnson delivers up a rant about the ubiquity of the new blue LEDs."
If all else fails, lower your standards.
Cheap blue LEDs (Score:2, Informative)
Re:the LEDs are ok... (Score:4, Informative)
From the Urban Dictionary:
Usually some 17-21 year old male with heavily modified "externals", "posing" in some Honda (typically a civic), giving a bad name to those real tuners who drive fast Hondas!
Re:Why (Score:3, Informative)
>3. Drill the shit out of the LED*
4. Turn the device back on, and find out if the LED was actually part of an important circuit as well as being an indicator.
Alternate step 3: Use black electrical tape to cover the LED. Peel it back off when you're taking the eBay photos a couple years from now.
Re:Why (Score:5, Informative)
1. Disassemble device
2. Locate offending LED
3. Apply heat (solder iron) and remove LED
4. If so desired, replace it with an LED of different color using the solder iron and resin.
5. Reassemble device
Paint (Score:5, Informative)
Even a sharpie marker..
Choose a blue color and you can still have your light, at a reduced amount of luminosity..
Re:LED TVs? (Score:2, Informative)
Re:This line got me... (Score:4, Informative)
The theory is if an alarm fails it might not go off, but if it beeps constantly then you will notice if it fails.
Re:Then choose another device (Score:3, Informative)
Ian Johnson writes a regular column for the Globe and Mail called The Chic Geek [globetechnology.com]. He also edits the technology section of the paper.
You can be certain that manufacturers regularly send him stuff in the hope that he will review it. Additionally, you can be sure that they will try to send him the 'sexiest' and most eye-catching products from their line--which is all the stuff with blue LEDs.
Re:Why (Score:5, Informative)
Blue LEDs typically have a forward voltage greater than standard red/green/yellow ones. If you don't use a correctly-calculated series resistor, a lower voltage LED will receive more current and become a super-high-tech Black LED shortly after powerup.
No kidding (Score:4, Informative)
It's not the use of blue LEDs that bothers me, it's how damn bright most of them are. An indicator that my gear is turned on is nice. An indicator that my gear is turned on that I can see from outside at night (makes the room glow blue) is more than just a bit of overkill.
Go to Sam's Club (Score:5, Informative)
Re:Why (Score:5, Informative)
And watch your new LED smoulder after a while. Blue LEDs trigger at 3.2 volts as compared to 0.7 volts for red and green LEDs. You also need to place a larger resistance in series with it, which is at best hardto do on a PCB that wasn't designed for it.
I vague recall seeing LEDs with curren-limiting resistances built in though somewhere, so make sure you use one of those.
Re:Why (Score:2, Informative)
The color is fine. Brightness is the problem (Score:5, Informative)
The color, though, is correct. The standard NEMA rules for indicator colors, used on industrial gear for decades, are
Anything that rackmounts should follow these rules. It's not only annoying, but a headache, to have red lights for non-trouble conditions in a rack of equipment. IBM always has.
Re:the LEDs are ok... (Score:2, Informative)
Shuji Nakamura is not sole inventor of LED (Score:2, Informative)
I hate how people keep crediting Nakamura as the sole inventor of the blue LED. Yes, he did make the first working blue LED, but Dr. Theodore Moustakas here at Boston University developed the buffer-layer process for GaN months before Nakamura.
Here's an article. [bu.edu]
Dr. Moustakas is an awesome professor too. He loves to teach and does it well. He deserves so much more credit.
Re:Why (Score:3, Informative)
Wavelength: Minimum @ 400nm (violet). =: lambda1.
Maximum: 800nm (red) =: lambda2.
Energy E=h*f, with f=c/lambda => E=h*c/lambda, voltage difference per electron: U=h*c/(e* lambda).
=> pocket calculator => U_red approx 1.6V, U_blue approx 3.1V.
Resistor for blue LED @ 5V supply voltage, 20mA current: (5-3.1)volts/(20mA) approx 100 ohm.
Current through red led: (5-1.6)volts/(100ohm)=34mA.
34mA through the LED. Most of my LEDs would out of spec. here, but very often, it works! No warranty!
(Repost because of formatting errors)
Re:It's just because they're new (Score:3, Informative)
Re:Go to Sam's Club (Score:1, Informative)
Yup, I tape a lot of LEDs "shut" (Score:3, Informative)
So I've used little bits of white electrical tape (match the case colors) to block them all out. Even the drive activity LED got covered over, at nights when it was going on-and-off it was exteremely annoying.
Now all I see are tiny dull green-yellow or orange spots, not a huge spotlight shining across the room. So I can still see the lights even during the daytime, but they are no longer the equivalent of little spotlights in the darkness.
Did the same thing to the LED on the speaker on the fridge in the kitchen, it was annoying at 2am when going for a glug of milk in the pitch black apartment to be blinded by the LED on it.
Here's a question - why do so few other people in the world use the BRAINS (you know, those huge amazing things that only we humans have) to SOLVE their problems instead of bitching about it all the time? Everyone always seems so supprised whenever I trot out some tiny little thing that I've done to solve a problem or make a job easy. It's not rocket science.
my blue LEDs (Score:3, Informative)
I have exactly two blue LEDs, and I had them easily 3 or 4 years ago when they were "expensive". It's a long story, but suffice to say I've been a fan of LEDs and their different colors and uses since childhood. I have a full-tower Antec case and I've never really been a fan of case-modding (I like beige just fine, thankyouverymuch), but I once happened to see some blue LEDs from the same online store that I bought my CPU fan from and bought a pair on a whim.
I soldered them in, replacing the green and amber power and HDD LEDs respectively, and turned it on. Looking, of course, directly into them. BIG MISTAKE. I felt like I was temporarily blinded for several minutes. The HDD one is not a big deal since it only flashes occasionally and never stays continuously lit for more than a second or two, but the power LED is on ALL THE TIME and if I turn off the lights it can illuminate an entire half of the room all by itself.
Fortunately, the LED bezel in the case directs most of the beam straight ahead, so it hasn't been that big a deal, though I've been tempted more than once to figure out the current and voltage and solder a resistor in series just to tone it down a bit.
LED replacement strategy. (Score:3, Informative)
While I will admit, the fact is that certain colors appear more piercing than others (due to how much they scatter), the power is the real issue. He mentions that he is bothered by RED LEDs, but in reality, Red is the most gentle color there is. Back when I was making my own home-made LED flashlights, I quickly discovered that red is an awful color to use, because it scatters so much that there's very little light left where you are pointing it. Blue worked well, but too well. It's soo powerful that you loose your night vision, and since LEDs weren't as bright as regular bulbs, you needed your night vision, otherwise the LED flashlights were useless.
Green/Amber are the best colors. No loss of night vision, but enough light to iluminate.
I have a solution to this problem though. What we need is an indicator that is not self-lit at all. Back before LEDs, most applications used a colored piece of plastic/metal to indicate status. What we need is something like that, but updated so they can be a drop-in replacement for LEDs.
I'm thinking maybe a tiny canister, with 3 tiny, colored, magnetized ball-bearings. A simple electro-magnet could move any of the 3 to the display window.
So, it would be just as simple as the multi-colored LEDs, extremely low power, and almost as small. As an added bonus, you won't see these status indicators when all the building lights are out, and you WILL be able to see them when it is bright out. If you've ever tried to see if your LED is on while it's in direct sunlight, you know what I'm talking about, and certainly see the advantage of this idea.
4RED and 1BLUE LED = hope for 3rd world (Score:2, Informative)